Cold and Hardy Cherry Trees

Consult with your local county or university extension service to determine your USDA hardiness zone. You may find that your specific microclimate, for better or worse, is different from other properties just a few miles away.

Go to local garden supply shops and nurseries and inquire about cherry varieties that have worked for others in your area. You'll need a graft that has both a hardy root stock and a hardy scion, or fruit-producing section. The hardiest cherry varieties are often described as "prairie cherries," or "prairie hardy" cherries.

Plant in a well-drained location where your cherry tree will receive full sun but be sheltered from cold winds. Don't plant your tree in a low-lying area where cold air will collect. Cherries blossom early, and a late frost can kill the blossoms and wipe out your year's crop. A gentle slope is best because it allows cold air to flow away from the tree.

Prune your cherry tree to a modest size. Most hardy cherries, such as Evans, North Star and SK Carmine Jewel, are small trees to begin with. Maintain them at eight feet or less in height, and train the branches to grow horizontally for better shade and ease of picking. Don't prune your tree in the autumn, which will reduce its hardiness.

Wrap the cherry's trunk with a commercial tree wrap or a piece of light canvas to protect it against wintertime sun scald, which can damage the bark. Cover the tree's branches with burlap, as you would a smaller garden shrub. You'll need to use several pieces and tie them in place, but they'll help protect your tree against exceptionally cold winds and weather and will also guard against sun scald.