Test your soil pH to determine by how much you will need to increase its acidity -- lower the soil’s pH -- to achieve a color change.
Lower soil pH naturally -- by 1 point -- and slowly by working 2.5 pounds of peat moss, 5 pounds of well-rotted manure or 14 pounds of compost into the top 12 inches of soil in a 1-square-yard area. Perform this soil amendment in winter when the shrub is dormant; you will need to gently remove then replace the plant.
Work elemental sulfur into the soil to a depth of at least 6 inches as another way to change pH slowly. In sandy to sandy-loam soils apply 0.8-pound per 100 square feet to reduce soil pH by 1 point. In heavier loamy or silty loam apply 2.4 pounds per 100 square feet.
Incorporate iron sulfate into the soil as a much faster alternative, which will start changing soil pH within a few weeks. In sandy to sandy-loam soils apply 4.8 pounds per 100 square feet to reduce soil pH by 1 point. In heavier loamy or silty loam apply 19.2 pounds per 100 square feet but split this into four applications at least four weeks apart. Water frequently to prevent soluble salt buildup.
Use commercial soil-acidifying fertilizers, such as Miracid, to temporarily lower pH. Dissolve 1 tablespoon of Miracid or a similar product per gallon of water and saturate the root area. Reapply it every two weeks.
Test your soil pH to determine by how much you need to decrease its acidity -- increase the soil’s pH -- to achieve a color change.
Apply dolomitic lime to increase soil pH, following the product instructions. How much you apply depends on the soil type -- clay soils require more than sandy soils -- and also on how big the pH change needs to be.
Work wood ashes into the soil as an alternative but in any year do not add more than 2 pounds for every100 square feet of planting to avoid potassium overload, which can interfere with the uptake of essential nutrients.