Move plants in late fall as growth slows after the plants bloom. Prune large plants, particularly those that have grown leggy, to make top growth more compact.
Dig straight down around existing shrubs with a sharp spade to create a root ball about 2 feet in diameter. Dig down as deep as possible -- from 12 to 18 inches.
Lift the shrub gently with a garden fork. Work it as loose as you can, allowing loose soil to fall back into the hole. Cut any long roots with a sharp knife -- pulling them might damage the crown at the root’s base.
Find a destination for your Japanese aralia in bright or semi-shade. In USDA zone 8, the plant can tolerate dappled shade. These are forest plants -- in a dry climate, they do better with some shade.
Dig a destination hole that is two to three times as wide as the aralia’s root ball and just as deep. Fatsias are shallow-rooted plants.
Amend the soil removed from the destination hole if necessary. Japanese aralia require moist, highly organic, well-drained soil. Work 3 to 4 inches of well-rotted compost in to a depth of 18 to 20 inches to guarantee friability and an acidic pH. Scuff some of this amended soil into the bottom of the planting hole.
Set the root ball into the destination hole and fill in around the roots, holding main stem to ensure that the shrub sits at the same level as it did before.
Water the plant with a drip hose until the surface of the soil begins to glisten. Repeat drip watering weekly -- or daily during hot or very dry weather -- until the plant begins active growth again.
Mulch root area with two or more inches of organic mulch to help keep soil moist. Keep the mulch way from the main stem to avoid stem rot.