Most forms of red fountain grass are annuals, meaning that they are not hardy in cold climates. Pennisetum setaceum is hardy only to U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zone 9. It grows quickly and makes a handsome landscape plant in annual borders or containers, but it dies with the first frost. Dig it up in the fall before cold temperatures arrive and place the roots in a pot with potting soil. Store the pot indoors in a cool, lighted room to keep it alive through the winter. Replant it in the spring outdoors.
Red fountain grass is fairly easy to grow and reaches 4 to 5 feet high within one season. It prefers full sun and slightly moist, well-drained soil. Poorly draining soils may cause the roots to rot, while inadequate moisture may cause the plant to wilt and eventually die. Amend heavy soils with compost and keep the soil evenly moist, but not soggy, for best growth.
Red fountain grass is rarely bothered by insects or disease problems, but inspect the plant closely. Stripped leaves or a sticky substance may be a sign of aphids or other leaf-sucking insects. Consult a county extension office to positively identify pests and diseases and offer a treatment. Herbicide damage may occur when herbicides drift from other areas of the garden. Signs of herbicide damage usually include distorted or curled leaves.
Consider planting a perennial ornamental grass in beds for low-maintenance appeal year after year. Try Western wheat grass or buffalo grass in dry regions. Feather reed grass and maiden grass works well in areas with some moisture. Clump ornamental grasses together for best effect.