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Frozen Banana Tree Care

Although bananas (Musa spp.) have origins in the tropics of Southeast Asia, many grow successfully in regions with frosts and freezes in winter. As long as the plant's underground rhizomes are not frozen, the banana survives and sprouts new growth in spring when the temperatures warm. Freezing temperatures cause the above-ground stems and leaves to brown. Do not remove these dead tissues prematurely. They insulate and buffer the rhizomes from cold.
  1. Types

    • Hundreds of banana varieties exist, the result of hundreds of years of cultivation and breeding efforts around the world. Not all banana plants tolerate the same cold temperatures in winter. Some cultivars may survive in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 6 and 7, while others in regions no colder than zone 8 or 9. The key is preventing subfreezing temperatures to push frost downward deep enough into the soil to harm the rhizomes.

    Damage

    • Banana leaves scald or turn brown when temperatures get below 28 degrees Fahrenheit. A brief encounter with 32 F may not cause any physical damage. Cold, drying winds coupled with subfreezing temperatures can kill leaf, stem and trunk tissues. Cold air sinks, so short, young sprouts may die before leaves held higher up on trunks. Cold damage may not appear immediately, but is progressively manifest with more yellowing or browning over several days.

    Immediate Response

    • Do not cut back the banana's freeze-damaged parts. The dead tissues take the brunt of the cold that ensues the rest of the winter. If the sight of brown leaves is unacceptable in the garden in winter, cut only the leaves back to stem, but retain the trunks. Do not fully cut back the banana until the threat of frost passes at the end of winter or early spring, which varies by latitude and elevation.

    Other Tips

    • Do not fertilize the banana after the freeze, as the shorter, cooler winter days are not conducive to fast regrowth. Monitor the soil in the aftermath of the freeze, supplementing natural rainfall to keep the soil evenly moist, but not soggy. Once the danger of frost passes in March or April, pull back any mulch so the sun more quickly warms the soil and promotes new growth to emerge. Fertilize the soil once the soil warms to at least 65 F and nighttime lows no longer drop below 50 F.