Killing the weeds before they sprout from the ground around the azaleas gives the homeowners a head start on weed control. Dithiopyr balan, trifluralin and pendimethalin are all herbicide chemical names to look for on the container. The weed killers set a barrier across the soil; when the seeds sprout and reach the barrier, they begin to die. Some weeds can stay in the soil for years before sprouting so the herbicide must be reapplied every year.
Post-emergent herbicides are designed for weed control after the plant is already growing. A post-emergent herbicide is either selective and non-selective. A selective one will only kill specific types of plants while a non-selective one will kill any plant it comes into contact with, including your azaleas. Dicamba, 2,4-D, MCPP, MCPA and diclorprop are chemical names to look for when you want to selectively kill broadleaf plants near the azaleas. Glyphosate will kill almost any plant and must be used with care.
Never spray weed killer on days with even a slight breeze. The fine mist can easily find its way to plants that you want to keep. Avoid using when the temperature is outside 60 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit and when rain is expected. Keep children and pets away from the treated area for as long as the manufacturer recommends. Don't fall for the idea that if a little herbicide is good, then a lot is better. All herbicide is poison to some degree and too much of it will harm all the plants around it.
Natural weed killers from the kitchen include vinegar, borax and bleach. These are contact herbicides, meaning that they kill the portion of the plant they contact. They are also non-selective and will kill your azaleas. Another natural way of killing weeds is to cover them with a mulch, which denies them sunlight. Wood chips, stone, shredded leaves and even cut grass can all work as mulch. Organic mulch must be replaced eventually while plastic landscaping sheets or rock mulch is long-lasting.