How to Grow Exhibition Orchids

Plant orchids in small pots with drainage holes to keep the orchids free of standing water. Orchids need dry, airy foundations for root and plant health. Use loose nonsoil foundations such as peat moss, fern matter, gravel, perlite, wood chips or bard for orchid potting material. Don't use traditional soil, which suffocates orchid roots.

Keep the orchids in species-appropriate locations. Most orchids prefer bright, indirect light and burn in full, harsh sun. Place orchids under artificial lights or in northern-, southern- or western-facing windows. Warm-growing orchids such as Phalaenopsis and Vanda orchids require nighttime temperatures of 60 to 68 degrees, while intermediate orchids such as Dendrobiums and Oncidiums do well in nighttime temperatures of 55 to 60 degrees. Keep cool-temperature orchids such as Cymbidium and Odontoglossum in nighttime temperatures of 45 to 50 degrees.

Water the orchids when their foundations dry. Orchids prefer dry foundations and fail with too much water. Start with a schedule of 1 inch of water every seven to 10 days, and adjust as necessary to accommodate your growing situation. Water only the roots; water on the crown or foliage causes rot.

Mix water-soluble 3-1-1, 1-1-1, 5-5-5 or 20-20-20 fertilizer so that it is diluted to one-fourth of the manufacturer-recommended rate, and water the orchids with this mixture once or twice a month. Use 30-10-10 water-soluble fertilizer every second month, and switch to phosphorous fertilizer such as 10-50-10 during the blooming seasons. Phosphorous encourages new growth and blooming. Use this mixture through the growing season.