Clean and dry the jar you want to use to eliminate contaminants, and lay 1 inch of gravel in the bottom of the jar. This foundation ensures drainage in the jar and keeps orchid roots out of standing water. Orchids will rot and die without this extra drainage. Lay 1/4 to 1/2 inch of ground charcoal over the gravel to keep the system clean.
Fill the jar up to three-quarters full with an orchid potting mix. Use fern matter, fir bark, wood chips, gravel, peat moss or coconut husks for the potting mix to give the orchid room for drainage, root growth and air circulation. The organic materials also retain moisture for growth.
Spread the orchid roots over the potting foundation, with the crown of the plant at the lip of the jar and any foliage and flower stalks extending above the rim. Don't push the foliage into the jar, as it may rot. Hold the foliage to the side and pack more potting media down over the roots and into the neck of the jar to secure the plant.
Push a bamboo stake into the soil near the foliage and flower stalk for support. Clip the flower stalks to this stake as they grow. Don't puncture the plant's crown with this stake.
Put the orchid in a species-appropriate site with regard to lighting and temperature. Orchids require a range of light situations, from bright to mild and indirect, and cool to warm temperatures.
Water the orchid with 2 inches of water, and watch for condensation on the jar. The jar will hold moisture longer than an average pot, so the orchid will require less-frequent watering. Water the orchid again when any condensation disappears.
Fertilize the orchid with water-soluble 1-1-1, 5-5-5 or 20-20-20 fertilizer every second week. Mix the fertilizer at one quarter the manufacturer-recommended rate to give the orchid gentle feedings. Don't get the fertilizer on foliage or the plant's crown, as it will burn. If you've planted your orchid in an inorganic foundation like gravel or perlite, use 3-1-1 fertilizer to give the plant more nitrogen.