Wait for the flowers to slowly fall off on their own. The flower that opened first will die first. It is the lowest one on the stalk. It will be followed by the one above it a few days later, then the next all the way to the newest flower on the tip of the flower spike.
Cut the flower spike about half an inch above the top node on the flower stalk, in between the node and where the lowest flower emerged. This will often cause the node to sprout a new set of flowers, but not all the time. Sometimes a small plantlet will form instead. Cut the plantlets off and pot them after they develop a couple of leaves and a few roots.
Cut the flower stalk off where it meets the lower leaves using a pair of sharp, clean scissors if it dries out and turns brown instead of producing more flowers.
Inspect the potting medium carefully to see if the Phalaenopsis needs to be repotted. Phalaenopsis like a free-draining medium such as fir bark, which tends to decay and sour after a few seasons. If the potting medium gets soggy and breaks down too much, it will cause root rot. Most Phalaenopsis need to be repotted every one to three seasons.
Fertilize the Phalaenopsis with a balanced liquid-soluble orchid fertilizer diluted to half strength twice a month. Full-strength fertilizer may burn the roots. This helps the plant develop good foliage over the growing season so it can flower the next year.
Provide the Phalaenopsis night time temperatures around 55 degrees Fahrenheit for two months as temperatures cool in the fall. This encourages flower bud formation.