While a few moth orchid species naturally bloom in summer, most bloom from fall to spring. Slightly cooler temperatures -- at or just below 55 F -- and shorter days in fall and winter initiate the flower spike, and by midwinter to spring the first blossoms open. Plant breeders combined fragrance, flower color and bloom season characteristics of parent plants to yield modern moth orchid grexes. Greenhouses raise these plants to bloom across the year and for sale in any season.
Unhealthy moth orchids may not flower in a timely manner or may not bloom at all when stressed. Ample light intensity is also needed to promote flower production. If a moth orchid is grown in too intense of light, the leaves become yellow and lack of moisture becomes problematic. Conversely, too little light causes very dark green leaves and failure to produce a flower spike. Malnourished orchids also may be too weak to flower.
Do not repot your moth orchid before you expect it to flower, or you want it to. Repotting adds stress to the plant. Basic moth orchid care starts with very bright indirect light and no direct sun rays. High ambient humidity is desired. Keep the orchid where it has warm days, 75 to 85 F, but cooler nights, around 60 to 70 F. Dropping temperatures at night to around 55 F trick the plant into thinking it's winter. Also, you can lightly fertilize the orchid roots with a phosphorus-rich fertilizer solution, such as 10-30-20.
Once the moth orchid's flower spike appears, maintain basic care and prevent the plant from receiving cold or hot drying drafts. If the temperature regimen remains even and comfortable, in the 60 to 75 F range, expect the flowers to open in succession over the course of several weeks and remain open for two to six months. Hot sun, incorrect watering and constantly moving the flowering plant can significantly shorten the flower display.