How to Start Lilies From Seeds

Preparing to Plant

• 1

  Determine the class of lily to be planted. Lilies are divided into 10 classes: Asiatic, martagon, candidum, American, longiflorum, trumpet, Oriental, miscellaneous and species. Each class has specific preferences for seed germination and post-germination seedling care. The most common lily classes are Asiatic, Oriental and martagon types.

• 2

  Evaluate the seed for viability. Lily seeds deteriorate rapidly without proper refrigeration or deep freezing, and should be checked prior to planting to affirm they're still alive. Hold a seed up to a bright light; the embryo should be clearly visible near the seed tip. Discard any seed that does not appear to have an embryo.

• 3

  Prepare the seed-growing containers. Any container several inches deep is adequate for germinating lily seeds. Though nursery cell packs will already have drainage holes, you need to punch holes in the bottom of any recycled plastic containers used to start seeds. Recycled containers also need to be washed first, ideally with soapy water and a weak bleach solution. Rinse thoroughly and dry prior to use.

• 4

  Fill the growing containers with a moist commercial seed starting mix or a homemade mix. The best material for starting lily seeds is sterile and lightweight with excellent moisture retention. Make your own by mixing equal parts of milled sphagnum moss and perlite or vermiculte, making sure to moisten it thoroughly prior to packing it into the seed-starting pots.

Epigeal Lily Germination

• 5

  Check whether the species of lily you are attempting to grow is an epigeal or hypogeal type. Epigeal lilies quickly produce an above-ground leaf, typically two to four weeks after germination. Commonly grown epigeal types include many Asiatic and trumpet lily species. Hypogeal types, such as many martagon and Oriental lilies, have a two-step germination process -- the bulb forms first and the initial above-ground leaf does not appear for several months to a year; the home seed-starting process for these types of lily is markedly different.

• 6

  Sow the lily seeds into the containers. Small containers should have one lily seed each; larger containers can accommodate several seeds, up to 15 per container. Seeds should be planted 1/2 inch to 1 inch deep. They can either be placed into a half-filled container and then covered, or sown into a drill hole poked into the growing medium to the appropriate depth, then packed down.

• 7

  Cover each planting container with plastic wrap, a plastic bag or a clear plastic lid. This ensures humidity levels stay relatively constant

• 8

  Place growing containers into a waterproof tray and position them in an area free from temperature fluctuations. Many lily seeds germinate best at temperatures between 65 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit, so using a seedling heat mat can help speed this process and keep temperatures constant.

• 9

  Check containers every day for the first 14 days for signs of germination. Keep grow lights on over the pots after planting, suspended several inches from the tops of the pots. Young seedlings require 14 to 16 hours of light daily.

• 10

  Refrigerate, if necessary, according to the species you are growing. Some epigeal lilies require a period of cold treatment before they can be successfully transplanted. These types will typically lose their first leaves just weeks after producing them. Do not discard the young seedlings when this happens -- put the tray into the refrigerator and monitor it for the next several weeks and months for signs of new growth.

• 11

  Feed seedlings every two weeks with a diluted plant food solution to encourage strong vegetative and root development. A common dilution rate for seedlings is eight droppers of concentrated plant food in a quart to a gallon of water. Pour the fertilizer solution into the bottom of the waterproof tray; watering from above can dislodge the seedlings and damage them.

• 12

  Transplant bulbs into the garden when they are about the size of a hazelnut.

Hypogeal Lily Germination

• 13

  Fill a snack-sized sealable plastic sandwich bag with a handful of moistened potting mixture. Using a plastic bag enables you to monitor the growth of the bulb without ferreting around in a seedling pot and potentially damaging the young plant. Many hypogeal types can also be planted in outdoor containers or directly in the garden in late winter. The natural chilling and warming cycle of the early spring months will accomplish these species’ cooling requirements.

• 14

  Moisten the growing medium periodically to ensure it stays evenly moist. Store in the refrigerator for between three and five months, checking often for signs of root and bulb development and to make sure the growing medium is still moist.

• 15

  Transplant bulbs into individual containers or directly into the garden once they have reached the size of a fingertip or peanut. This, however, can take one or more years. Mark off the location where they are growing and be patient; hypogeal lilies can take several weeks or months before sending up their first true leaves even when bulbs are relatively well developed.