The bell pepper seedling looks like other pepper seedlings and even tomato seedlings. As the stem emerges from the growing medium, two small, pointed leaves are present at the top and make almost a perfect "T" shape. As the seedling continues growing, more leaves become present on the plant. The leaves are oval with a tapered point at the end, slightly resembling a spade. The leaves are typically green to dark green, but color may slightly vary with the different varieties.
As the plant grows, it becomes more dense and bushy with protective foliage. The peppers typically develop under cover of the leaves. Healthy plants have a full appearance and you may not be able to see very young peppers on the plant without looking under and inside the plant. The plants grow more than 2-feet tall, with 2 feet being for small, compact varieties.
The bell pepper fruit pepper starts as a small, green bump attached to a stem. It may be almost round, but typically a slightly oval shape. As the pepper grows, its common bell or block shape becomes more prevalent. The bumps at the fruit's bottom become more set as it gets bigger. Sometimes even bell peppers don't take on their characteristic namesake; they may be much longer and more tapered than the typical bell pepper. As it continues growing, the bell pepper changes from green to red, yellow or even brown. Many gardeners harvest bell peppers while they are still green, although they are not fully mature. If you wish to let the fruit ripen, allow it to change colors and harvest directly after the color change. Fully ripe bell peppers typically have a sweeter taste and a much higher vitamin content than the green, unripe peppers.
Because they prefer warm climates, 70 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit during the day and 60 to 70 F by night, it is best to start bell peppers approximately six to eight weeks before the average last frost date in your area. Make sure your garden soil is warm and well draining with moderate fertility. Fertilizers commonly used for peppers include those higher in phosphorous and potash than nitrogen. After there is no threat of frost, take the young transplants out to your garden and space them 18 inches apart in rows that are at least 2 feet apart.