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How to Grow Pennsylvania Crookneck Squash

Cucurbits moschata, "Pennsylvania Dutch crookneck," a popular staple in Pennsylvanian Amish kitchens, provides flavor and nutritional value similar to that of a butternut squash or pumpkin. This winter squash is used to create a variety of pies, breads, butters and soups. Often referred to as a "neck pumpkin," due to its lengthy, hook-shaped neck and pumpkin-like base, the Pennsylvania Dutch crookneck can reach 20 pounds or more. Like most winter squash varieties, the mature crookneck squash sports a hard rind and may be stored for up to six months in a dry room with temperatures between 45 and 50 degrees Fahrenheit.

Things You'll Need

  • Compost
  • Coarse sand
  • Balanced fertilizer
  • Garden tiller
  • Shovel
  • Rake
  • Black plastic
  • Sharp knife
  • Garden scissors
  • Food-grade pesticides
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Instructions

  1. Laying the Foundation

    • 1

      Choose a location that offers full sun and lots of space for the squash vines to spread. Crowded vines are susceptible to decreased production and a variety of diseases, including bacterial wilt and powdery mildew. Purdue University Cooperative Extension Service also notes that any member of the cucurbit family should not be planted in the same location more than once every three years, to protect the plants from diseases and pests left behind in the soil from a previous crop.

    • 2

      Take soil samples from the chosen site and have them tested at your local agricultural extension office. Winter squash varieties require a pH level of 7.0, along with lower nitrogen levels and higher potassium and phosphorous levels for best production. Your agent can help you determine the necessary amendments to create the best soil environment for your crop.

    • 3

      Apply at least 2 inches of equal amounts of sand and compost, and a complete fertilizer, following the manufacturer's recommended dosage. Work the amendments into the soil at a depth of at least 8 to 10 inches, using a garden tiller.

    Planting Crookneck Squash

    • 4

      Prepare the planting site early in the spring, after all chance of frost has passed for your location and the soil warms to at least 60 to 65 degrees. Squash seeds rot if the soil is too cold.

    • 5

      Create one 8- to 10-inch hill, using a shovel to mound and pack the dirt into form, for each three to five expected vines. The D. Landreth Seed Company recommends spacing hills at least 10 feet apart.

    • 6

      Cover each hill with a sheet of black plastic, then shovel dirt onto all the edges of the plastic to hold it securely in place. Black plastic helps the soil retain warmth and also prevents weed formation.

    • 7

      Make an X-shaped slit at the center of each mound and fold under the points to create an opening for sowing the squash seeds.

    • 8

      Sow four to six seeds, at a depth of 1 inch, forming a circle. Cover lightly with soil, but do not pat the soil down tight. Water each mound gently to settle the seeds into their new location.

    • 9

      Thin out all but the strongest two seedlings on each mound when they develop at least two sets of leaves. Snip with garden scissors or gently pinch off the weaker seedlings and discard.

    Caring for Crookneck Squash

    • 10

      Water squash vines at a rate of 1 inch per week, allowing water to soak into the soil to reach the deeper roots. When the fruits develop, later in the growing season, decrease watering to allow fruits to mature.

    • 11

      Check the soil daily for weeds and pull them gently to avoid disturbing the root structure, which grows close to the top of the soil line. Watering in the morning allows the foliage ample time to dry throughout the day. Wet leaves increase the chance of leaf diseases.

    • 12

      Check for signs of insect infestation from squash vine borers and squash bugs, which both will destroy the vines if not controlled early. Symptoms include chewed foliage and wilting vines. Control with appropriate pesticides.

    • 13

      Train the vines around their own hill. Once they begin to run, or grow rapidly from the base of the plant, gently move them into position around the top of the mound. Do not allow them to become tangled and keep moving them during the growing period to ensure that all vines have adequate space for good air circulation and fruit production.