Many a gardener has been dismayed when tomato plants begin to wilt and develop signs of disease. There are two main kinds of wilt in tomatoes, known by their initials: F for fusarium and V for verticillium. Unfortunately, there is no absolute cure once a plant has begun to develop wilt -- although it is possible that you could still harvest some tomatoes from the plant. On the other hand, a gardener can take some preparatory steps so that wilt is less likely in the next year's crop.
Fusarium wilt occurs primarily in tomatoes grown in hotter temperatures so it's more common in warm climates, such as the southern United States. It's a fungus -- Fusarium oxysporum, which gives the disease its name -- that thrives in soil that is 75 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit. The infection starts in the roots, blocking the flow of water and nutrition to the plant, and the lower leaves are the first to turn yellow and die. The entire tomato plant will wilt from bottom to top as the problem progresses.
Verticillium wilt is named for the Verticillium albo-atrum fungus. It is most prevalent in cooler temperatures, such as the northeastern United States, and thrives when the soil temperature is 55 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit. Verticillium wilt tends to show up late in the tomato season. As with fusarium wilt, this disease is first seen in the lower leaves. Yellow blotches may show up, followed by dark brown spots. Eventually the leaves wilt and drop, and this process develops from the bottom of the plant upward. With verticillium wilt, the problem doesn't usually reach all the way to the top of the plant.
When buying tomato plants or seeds, look for varieties marked V, F or VF. These varieties have been developed specifically to be resistant to wilt. VF hybrid tomato varieties are commonly available and include such popular tomatoes as Better Boy and Early Girl.
Since wilt is caused by a fungus in the soil, rotate crops. Plant your tomatoes in a different part of your garden next year than you did this year. Plant your tomatoes as much as 4 or 5 feet apart. This lets air and light circulate freely between the plants and keeps dampness to a minimum.
Put down a plastic, newspaper or straw mulch layer to keep tomato plant leaves from direct contact with the soil. However, don't use an organic mulch such as grass clippings, leaves or bark; they could be a welcoming environment for the fungus. Clean up the area where tomatoes are grown, both during and at the end of the growing season. Remove plant debris including dead leaves, stems and roots that can help the soil continue to grow the fungus.