Pruning, an important step in growing roses, is a skill acquired over a period of time. Cutting and pruning keeps the rose plant healthy and invigorated, prolongs flowering and maintains the desired shape. Pruning lets air and sunlight to the center of the plant, controls the quality and quantity of blooms and improves the plant's appearance. Use sharp, sterilized pruning shears so you form clean cuts and do not tear or crush the stems. Prune roses just before new growth begins, preferably in March or April.
Remove dead, diseased and damaged canes from the rose plant. These canes are black, shriveled or dark brown. Use sharp pruning equipment to cut each selected cane at a 45-degree angle, 1/4 inch above an outward bud eye or swelling. Slant the cut away from the bud.
Locate spindly canes thinner than a pencil and sever these from the rose plant, along with crossing or rubbing canes that cause abrasions on the wood and provide an inlet for disease-spreading organisms. Also remove suckers or shoots from the base of a grafted rose plant. Dig the soil around the root carefully to determine the point where the sucker originates, and cut it off at root level to prevent regrowth.
Locate six to eight erect, healthy and thick canes to serve as the main branches of the rose bush. Ideally, you want a vase-shaped bush with an open center. Shorten the stems down to 1 to 4 feet in height. Cut the remaining stems down at soil level.
Deadhead old or faded blooms to keep the rose plant from developing rose hips or rose fruit. Make a diagonal cut under the selected flower on the stem, directly above a five-leaf branch so it develops into a healthy cane.
Apply a thin coating of water-soluble white glue over the exposed surface of each cut to prevent the entry of cane borers. Collect clippings from around the base of the rose and discard.
Tie the shoots of the climbing rose to a horizontal position along a trellis or fence, or spiral them around a tower to encourage the production of laterals and blooms. Do not prune the main canes during the first season, but deadhead the blooms to prolong flowering. A new cane called a lateral cane develops from the bud where a leaf joins a horizontal cane.
Cut a vertical lateral cane down to three bud eyes during the second season. Also prune the flowered laterals of an established climber in spring down to two to three bud eyes.
Remove the older wood at the base of a 4-year-old or older climber to encourage new growth. Also remove crossing and damaged canes, along with suckers as soon as they appear.