How to Transplant Herbs That Are Weak From a Frost

Trim back foliage to a height of 2 to 4 inches. Remove any dead or damaged leaves from the frost and discard. New growth may appear during the fall, if the weather warms, or in the spring when the bright sun returns.

Dig around the base of the herb plant with a garden spade or fork. Begin digging 6 to 8 inches from the base of the plant to avoid damaging the roots. Slide the blade of the spade under the root ball.

Lift the entire root ball free of the soil. Shake the plant to remove excess soil from the roots. This allows you to examine the roots and to separate the clump with ease.

Examine the roots for any damaged or discolored areas. Healthy roots are white or tan and pliable, while diseased roots are dark, brittle or mushy. Cut away any damaged roots with a sharp knife.

Pull the root ball into sections with your hands, leaving three to five shoots on each section. If the root ball resists your efforts, cut the roots apart with a sharp knife. Make a clean cut through the roots to separate them into the desired sections.

Transplant the divided roots to a prepared bed with similar lighting and moisture as the original growing area. Position the roots into the soil so that the crown, or the point where the roots join the stems, rests at the soil level.

Fill in around the roots with fresh soil. Firm the soil down with your hands to secure the roots and remove air pockets.

Water thoroughly to moisten the soil to the root level. Water again when the soil feels dry 2 to 3 inches below the surface. Repeat until the ground freezes in the fall.

Mulch with a 3- to 4-inch layer of mulch, such as straw or hay, to prevent winter damage from frost heaves. Remove mulch in the spring when new growth appears.