Basic Principles of Pruning Backyard Grapes

Establishing a Healthy Trunk

• Grape vines grown on trellis wires require a strong trunk that results from removing side shoots and allowing the plant's energy to focus on the main shoot. Lateral shoots that are closest to the wire should be tied in place and other shoots removed. Check the plant regularly through the summer and continue to remove shoots coming from the lower trunk and root area. Resist the temptation to allow first-year vigorous growers to grow to the top wire. Lateral shoots need to be established before the main shoot should be allowed to reach the top trellis wire.

Second-Year Pruning

• Remove all canes but the one growing the best in late winter. If the most vigorous-growing cane reaches the top wire, prune it there and tie to the wire. Do the same if it reaches the lower wire. Remove the cane down to two buds to be treated as a newly-planted vine if it doesn't reach the bottom wire. Grape vines grown on fences or arbors should be treated in the same fashion, giving the plant a foot or two of clearance from the ground to allow for a healthy trunk development. Prune away any flower or fruit in the second year to force the plant to continue to grow a stronger vine.

Third-Year Pruning

• A healthy third-year plant will consist of the main stem tied to one or two trellis wires or points on a fence or arbor and several canes. In the dormant season of late winter, remove all but the best two canes growing nearest the wire in both direction. Prune the remaining canes back to between two and four buds. These are the buds that will produce your plant's first fruiting canes.

Fourth-Year and Beyond Pruning

• Grapes only are produced on new canes each year, so continue to choose reasonably straight shoots that are healthy and near the wire to grow while all others are removed, including any old wood. Also remove any sucker growth from the lower trunk.

Arbor Growth

• Grapes grown to be trained up walls and arbors are often used as ornamental plants for shade or to hide blemishes in buildings as much as for the fruit. Prune old wood every 2 to 3 feet to allow for new cane development and remove canes as needed to allow for sunlight to reach fruit. Do not allow canes to grow into a tangled mass but instead train canes to the structure to achieve the desired effect and to lessen negatives effects on fruit production.