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How to Propagate Wild Muscadines

Native to southeastern United States, muscadine grapes or scuppernong are a wild grape variety that are bronze, purple or reddish-black. Loose clusters of grapes grow on deciduous vines that grow 70 to 100 feet in the wild. Although easily propagated from seed and layering, consider rooting stem cuttings taken from healthy wild muscadines between May and August. Not only is the process of propagating the vines through cuttings inexpensive, it is rewarding to see new growth flourish from rootless shoots.

Things You'll Need

  • Soil testing kit
  • Sulfur or lime
  • Rototiller
  • Sand
  • Peat
  • Bark
  • Rake
  • Emitters and fine-aperture nozzles
  • Pruning shears
  • Bucket
  • Rooting hormone powder
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Instructions

    • 1

      Locate a rooting site or planting bed with well-draining soil and dappled sunlight during the warmest part of the day. Ensure the soil pH is 6.0; add sulfur to raise or lime to lower existing pH. Loosen the soil to a depth of 6 inches with a rototiller. Add equal amounts of sand, peat and bark to it and mix well. Rake the surface of the planting bed to level it. Install an emitter at each corner of the bed to irrigate the cuttings when planted.

    • 2

      Select a vigorous cane from a healthy and disease-free wild muscadine grape vine when it grows actively during early to midsummer. Ensure the cane is no wider than a pencil and is green but not too succulent.

    • 3

      Measure down 24 inches from the tip of a cane and cut it at 60 degrees using sharp, sterilized pruning shears. Remove the lower two leaves from the cutting.

    • 4

      Cut the cane between the fourth and fifth leaves to form a single cutting that measures 4 to 6 inches and contains three to four nodes. Also cut the remaining cane into individual 4- to 6-inch cuttings. Remove the lower two leaves from each cutting and discard the tender shoot tip or the upper 4 to 5 inches of the cane growth.

    • 5

      Pour water at room temperature into a bucket and immediately immerse the cuttings into it until you root them. Ensure the bucket is away from direct sunlight that dries the cuttings. Depending on personal preference, leave the leaves on each cutting as they are or cut them in half to reduce moisture loss.

    • 6

      Insert the lower half of each cutting in rooting hormone before planting it in the prepared bed. Although not necessary, rooting hormone powder increases chances and accelerates the pace of root development. Tap excess powder off each cutting before planting it two-nodes deep into the prepared bed.

    • 7

      Press the soil around the base of each cutting to remove trapped air. Space the cuttings 5 to 8 inches apart to keep their foliage from touching.

    • 8

      Set the emitters to mist the leaves for five seconds every 10 to 12 minutes during the day. Turn the emitters off at night so you do not irrigate the cuttings.

    • 9

      Dig the cuttings in autumn, when they go dormant, and transplant them to their permanent planting locations.