Prepare the garlic beds by tilling the soil with a hand trowel. Garlic thrives in loose, well-drained soil.
Test the soil with a pH testing kit, available at hardware stores or garden centers. Aim for a pH between 6 and 7. Add the necessary soil amendments to reach the optimal pH level. For instance, aluminum sulfate and sulfur lower soil pH levels, while limestone raises it.
Purchase garlic bulbs specifically meant for growing from a distributor or garden center. Select a variety meant for your area's climate. Avoid supermarket garlic cloves unless you can confirm the garlic will grow well in your climate.
Break apart the garlic bulbs into cloves two days before planting. Each clove will grow another whole bulb.
Dig holes 6 inches apart and 3 inches deep for the garlic cloves.
Insert the cloves, pointed side up, into the holes. Cover with soil. Water the ground thoroughly.
Lay about 3 inches of straw or leaf mulch on top of the beds to protect the garlic and for weed control. Remove the mulch in the spring unless you live in a dry area. The mulch will help the beds retain moisture and therefore should not be used in spring in an already wet area.
Monitor the beds for signs of weeds. Garlic does not compete well against weeds, so remove any weeds immediately.
Water the beds weekly once spring arrives. Soak the plants with about 1 inch of water. Stop watering two weeks before harvesting to prevent bulb rot.
Harvest the garlic bulbs when the above-ground stalk is mostly brown and dry, with about a half-dozen green leaves left. Insert a hand trowel under the bulb and pull up on the stalk to release the bulb from the ground. Keep the stalks and roots intact.
Hang the stalks in a warm, dry area for four weeks to cure the garlic. Cut off the roots and stalks and use the garlic how you wish.