Tips on Lifting Gladiolus Bulbs

Timing

• After the plants have stopped producing flowers, allow them to die back naturally so the fading foliage can provide vital nutrients to the corms. To keep the bed looking neat, trim back the dead flower stalks and remove withered foliage to a height of no less than 4 inches. Dig the corms before the first hard frost. In areas below Zone 6, lift overcrowded corms six to eight weeks after flowering.

Digging

• Use a garden fork or spade to loosen the soil. Dig at least 6 inches away from the bulb bed to avoid damaging the corms. The University of Minnesota Extension warns that "diseases enter through cuts and bruises very readily and can cause rotting and losses in storage." Carefully insert the tool to a depth of about 12 inches, slide the fork under the bulbs then lift gladiolus corms up. Pull the bulbs from their bed.

Storing

• Shake off any large clumps of dirt. Trim back any remaining foliage with a pair of clippers or scissors. Cut the foliage just above the top of the corm. Do not wash the corms. To cure gladiolus corms, place them in an area away from direct sunlight or drying wind for three weeks. Trim away any damaged corms and place the remaining material in a paper or mesh bag. Store gladioli corms at 60 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit.

Alternatives To Lifting

• In Zones 7 and 8, mulch gladioli beds in winter with a 2- to 4-inch layer of straw or hay. Above Zone 6, a thick layer of mulch may protect tender gladioli, but it is not reliable. If lifting is not a practical solution in your northern garden, consider Gladiolus nanus, a species that is hardy to Zone 5. While smaller than its less hardy relatives at just 1 to 2 feet, Gladiolus nanus is a good choice for northern gardens.