How to Grow Lavender at Home

Start lavender plants at home in late June or early July so they will have enough time to establish a root system before the first frost.

Select a 4-inch-long portion from the tip of a strong, non-flowering stem. Cut the stem with pruning shears just below a set of leaves.

Strip off the lower two sets of leaves so the four growth nodes are exposed. Dip the base of the stem in 0.1-percent IBA talc.

Pot the lavender cutting to half its depth in a 4-inch planter filled with equal amounts of perlite and coarse sand. Mound some of the perlite and sand mixture around the base to hold the cutting upright.

Water the lavender cutting with 1/8 cup of water whenever the perlite and sand mixture feels dry 1 inch below the surface. Let the perlite and sand mixture dry out to 2 inches during the winter months.

Set the planter in a cold frame with filtered light. Prop open the cold frame slightly to allow for ventilation during the summer months. Close the cold frame once nighttime temperatures dip below 50 degrees F.

Check for roots the following year in mid-April. Transplant the lavender plant into the garden two weeks after the last forecasted killing frost.

Choose a planting site with full southerly sun exposure and excellent drainage. Avoid spots where water pools or where shade falls during the afternoon.

Break up the soil at the planting site to a depth of 6 inches using a cultivator. Amend the soil with a 2- to 4-inch-thick layer of coarse sand to improve the drainage. Add pelletized lime if the soil has an acidic pH -- one below 6.5. Apply the pelletized lime according to the directions on the package.

Plant the lavender so the base of the stem is even with the surrounding soil. Avoid positioning the plant lower than the surrounding soil, since water will pool around the base and cause the plant to yellow.

Deadhead the lavender plant after its first bloom to force its energy into further root production. Do not prune the plant heavily for two to three years after planting it.