How to Grow Amaryllis in the Second Year

Snip off and discard the spent blooms immediately after they shrivel. Cut the flower stalk at the base using pruning shears. Make the cut as close to the base as possible. Do not cut off the foliage since the amaryllis needs the leaves to store energy in the bulb.

Place the amaryllis where it will receive very bright light throughout most of the day, such as near a large window or outdoors on a sheltered, south-facing porch. Keep the plant in this position until after all danger of frost has passed.

Move the amaryllis to the garden or into a greenhouse during the summer months. Keep it warm but do not expose it to very strong afternoon sun. Limit direct sun exposure to three hours in the morning.

Water the amaryllis regularly during the summer. Pour 1 to 2 cups of water around the base of the plant once a week to keep the soil moist. Let the top 1/2 inch dry out between waterings.

Feed the amaryllis twice a month with a well-balanced 10-10-10 formula fertilizer from May until early September. Apply the fertilizer according to the manufacturer's directions for the best results.

Cease watering in early September following the last feeding. Water one last time immediately after the final feeding to distribute the nutrients around the bulb.

Cut off the foliage once it dies back in autumn. Cut it back flush with the soil using sharp, clean pruning shears. Discard the leaves after removing them.

Store the amaryllis in its pot for six weeks in a cool, dark and somewhat dry environment. Keep temperatures around the pot below 50 F during the storage period.

Repot the amaryllis bulb six weeks before the desired blooming period. Pot the bulb to half its depth in a terracotta or ceramic pot filled with a mix of equal measures sterile potting soil, coir and perlite.

Place it in a well-lighted location where temperatures stay between 55 and 65 F during the day. Water the bulb with 1 cup of water whenever the soil surface feels dry. Watch for growth beginning in three weeks.