How to Transplant Dwarf Fruit Trees

Prune the tree to remove about 30 percent of the canopy. This can serve as the annual pruning that dwarf fruit trees need to maintain good fruiting and form. Remove branches that are tightly spaced or growing toward the center of the tree and cut back the new growth from the previous year by about one-third. Reducing the canopy is important to protect the tree from transplant shock. This way the roots will have less foliage to which to supply nutrients and water during the recovery period.

Dig a trench around the tree about 2 feet from the trunk. Cut any lateral roots in the trench with the blade of the shovel or a pair of loppers. The trench does not need to be more than 6 or 8 inches deep at this point.

Begin to remove the soil between the trench and the trunk of the tree, starting from the trench. Be careful to not damage the larger lateral roots as they are exposed. It is OK to cut small fibrous roots on the periphery of the root system, but preserve them as much as possible -- especially the ones that stem from the largest lateral roots. The goal is to expand the trench in the direction of the trunk until it is about 1 foot wide, leaving an area of undisturbed soil 2 feet in diameter around the trunk.

Excavate the trench to a depth of 12 to 16 inches outside the area of undisturbed soil adjacent to the trunk.

Slice into the soil all around the bottom of the trench with the blade of the shovel angled into the soil under the trunk. Slice through all of the roots in this area and pry up gently with the shovel on all sides to break any roots that anchor the tree from below. If needed, push and pull on the tree trunk in all directions, using the leverage to break the roots. The goal is to excavate a root ball approximately 2 feet in diameter and 16 inches deep, with several larger lateral roots that extend an additional 2 feet from the root ball. These lateral roots will not have much soil attached when they are removed but serve to anchor the tree and establish a wide root system in its new location.

Lean the tree over to one side so the root ball is angled up slightly in the hole and slide a sheet of burlap under the root ball. With the help of one to three other people, lift the tree and root ball from the hole using the four corners of the burlap and carry or drag it to the new location.

Dig the new planting hole to the same depth as the root ball and slightly wider. Place the root ball in the hole and position the trunk so it is standing up straight and the crown of the roots is even with the surrounding soil level. Pack soil firmly around all the roots so there are no air pockets.

Spread 2 or 3 inches of compost over the root zone followed by a layer of mulch 2 to 3 inches deep. Avoid piling any mulch or compost within 6 inches of the trunk, but spread it at least 2 feet beyond the drip-line of the tree.

Water the tree thoroughly after planting and continue to give water during the following growing season whenever the top inch of soil is dry.

Drive two 6-foot wooden stakes into the ground about 12 inches from the trunk on either side. Secure the trunk to the stakes with rubber "tree ties" to prevent it from blowing over in high winds before the roots have regrown to anchor the tree.