How to Graft or Clone Blueberries

Slice 4-inch cuttings about the thickness of a pencil from last year's growth that has had a chance to harden in early April or after the danger of frost has passed. Use a sharp knife as opposed to pruning shears to keep from crushing the inside of the stems and cut just before a bud at a 45-degree angle.

Place the cuttings directly into a container or plastic bag filled with wet sphagnum moss to prevent the cut from drying out.

Soak ground peat moss in warm water for three to four hours before selecting the blueberry cuttings. Have enough to fill several peat pots with 3 inches of peat moss.

Poke the cuttings into the surface of the peat moss, making sure to poke the bottom end down, pushing them 2 inches into the soil. Firm the soil around the stems of the cuttings.

Drizzle a little water around the cuttings to settle the peat moss in around the plants.

Place each pot in a plastic bag to create a humid atmosphere. Keep the cuttings at 65 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit.

Place the pots in a shady spot for the next three to four months or for the best part of the summer, opening the bags every few days for fresh air.

Water as necessary to keep the peat moss moist but not waterlogged and allow enough airflow to prevent mold or fungus.

Prepare the rooted cuttings for winter by removing the plastic bags and sinking the peat pot into the garden soil in August.

Mulch over the cuttings with 6 inches of pine needles until the spring.

Lift the rooted cuttings in the spring and plant in a larger container or a permanent position outside where they will get acid soil, full sunlight, adequate moisture and good drainage.