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How to Grow Blueberry Bushes in Partial Shade

Blueberries are a popular fruit for eating fresh, canned or in preserves. They grow native to North America and prefer acidic, well-drained soil in a temperate climate. Some varieties, such as Rabbit-Eye, can survive hot climates, but blueberries favor zones with mild winters and warm summers. The plants produce bright blue berries with a tangy flavor from July until September and put on a golden fall foliage show for added interest. They make excellent border plants in the home garden and attract wildlife. Blueberries do best in full sun, but the Low Bush blueberry can tolerate a partial-shade bed with only 50-percent sun.

Things You'll Need

  • Soil test
  • Sulfur
  • Shovel
  • Compost
  • Peat moss
  • Water
  • Mulch
  • Fertilizer (5-5-10)
  • Ammonium sulfate
  • Pruners
  • Rock potassium
  • Bird net
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Instructions

    • 1

      Test your soil in the chosen planting space in fall. Ideal pH levels of soil for a blueberry are between 4.0 and 5.0. If you have limed the soil in the past five years you will likely need to add sulfur to increase the acidity. Lime "sweetens" soil and brings it closer to a base pH. The exact amount of sulfur depends on the number of plants you will be growing and the pH level. Consult your local extension office for advice on the amount to apply.

    • 2

      Dig in 3 inches of compost in spring. Prepare the soil to a depth of 12 to 18 inches and incorporate the compost throughout. Dig a hole 2 inches deeper and twice as wide as the root ball on the blueberry plant. Mix in half a gallon of peat moss. Soils need to drain well in a partial-shade environment, and the addition of these amendments will ensure adequate drainage and beginner nutrition.

    • 3

      Remove the blueberry from the nursery pot and gently spread the roots. Place it in the hole and begin to fill in with the removed soil. Press the earth around the roots of the plant firmly to remove air. Continue to build the soil up until it is level with the surface. Make certain the roots are covered but the stem or trunk is not.

    • 4

      Give the plant 1 to 2 inches of water every week. Keep 2 inches of mulch around the plant out to the drip line. Leave 1/2 inch around the trunk clear of mulch so air can circulate. Watch for drought stress such as red foliage, skinny weak limbs and loss of flowers or fruit; however, the semi-shady area will prevent excess evaporation and drought stress.

    • 5

      Fertilize after leaves have reached full size with a low-nitrogen, high-potassium fertilizer in spring. Follow the instructions for the amount to apply and work it into soil. Follow with a heavy watering that leaves puddles on the surface of the soil to help prevent root burn. In May, apply 1 tbsp. of ammonium sulfate to assist soil pH.

    • 6

      Prune the plant lightly the first two years to keep it from fruiting. The plant needs to set good roots and begin a structure to support fruit bearing. Thereafter, remove old canes so fruit will set on the new ones. Prune when the plant is dormant in winter. In the fourth year, cut out 50 percent of the wood by opening up the interior to increase air flow. The height of the canes can be reduced by one-third to help them bulk up and thicken.

    • 7

      Encourage flowering by applying rock potassium in fall. The potassium increases flower and fruit production. The limited sun will decrease the flowering, but the addition of potassium will encourage the formation of blooms. Follow the package instructions for method of application.

    • 8

      Lay bird netting over the plant to protect the fruit in May. Begin harvesting the fruit in late July in a semi-shady area. The plants will fruit if they have morning sun and afternoon shade, but there will not be a full production like there is in a full-sun plant.