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The Growth Needs of Red Beans

Red beans, which are generally synonymous with kidney beans, are part of the dried bean family, which means they grow in pods like green or string beans but are not harvested fresh and eaten. They are left to dry in their pods, at which time the pods are discarded and the beans reserved for reconstitution in liquid before consumption.
  1. Planting Guidelines

    • To ensure the best growth, plant red bean seeds after the last chance of frost has passed and the soil has had time to reach a moderate temperature around 60 degrees Fahrenheit. Sow the seeds three inches apart and about an inch deep. Layer mulch in between the rows to keep the developing pods from touching the ground, which promotes decay. Red beans grow best in full sun, so choose the planting spot accordingly.

    Fertilization and Care

    • From the initial planting until the plants’ pods start to mature, keep the soil moist and then stop watering them to encourage the pods and beans to dry. Beans, like peas, fertilize themselves with the nitrogen they create while growing, and they produce so much of the nutrient that they leave behind more nitrogen than they use to grow. To help keep the nitrogen in their roots and grow the healthiest beans, treat the soil with an "innoculant" solution, sold at nurseries and garden centers.

    Disease and Pest Control

    • Anthracnose, blight and mosaic disease are usually preventable by giving the bean plants good air circulation, so keep them from touching each other as they grow and expand, through staking or light pruning. Touching the leaves of the plant while they are wet may spread rust throughout the crop. After harvesting, thoroughly turn the soil to kill any bacteria in the plant debris. For best results and the retention of fertile soil, rotate crops so beans or legumes are not sown in the same area of the garden more than once every three years.

    Harvesting and Storage

    • Depending on the cultivar, red beans are ready to harvest between 90 and 150 days after planting, with quick growing varieties pickable at around 100 days. Periods of frost during maturation may increase harvest times. To test the beans for maturity, bite one. The plants are ready to harvest if the bean can hardly be dented by teeth. You can remove the beans from the individual pods by hand, or place a large number of pods in a cloth bag or sack and walk on them until the pods break and release the beans. The chaff on the beans can be removed by transferring them back and forth between bowls in front of a fan or performing the task outside on a windy day. To deter an invasion of weevils, freeze the dried beans for a few hours before placing them in airtight bags or jars and storing them in a cool, dry cupboard.