Fusarium wilt, sometimes just referred to as "wilt," can resemble other, less serious, plant diseases. Before you begin to take action against wilt in chickpea crops, make sure you know what problem you're dealing with. Aphids can spread viruses that also cause yellowing of the bean plant. These viruses are sometimes simply cosmetic, or can be treated easily by hosing aphids off the plants or setting ant baits to interrupt the mutually beneficial ant and aphid relationship. These less serious viruses will show as a brighter yellow. Wilt, on the other hand, starts with lower leaves turning pale yellow, then progresses to slowed-down growth. Ultimately, the entire vine develops a wilted look before dying.
If wilt is a problem in your region, take the precaution of choosing chickpea seeds that have been bred to be resistant to Fusarium wilt. The University of California's Integrated Pest Management program suggests the varieties known as UC-15 or UC-27. Alternatively, look in your seed catalog for chickpea seeds labeled "disease resistant," or "Fusarium wilt resistant." In general, the larger chickpea varieties that fall into the "kabuli" group are better able to fight off Fusarium wilt spores than the smaller chickpea types, often called "desi."
Fungal spores are easily spread in wet weather. This tendency makes it important to water plants with a hose or drip irrigation system, rather than a sprinkler system, which continually wets vine foliage. Resist the urge to weed, prune or harvest chickpea vines during wet weather. This is especially important if you're using pruning shears or similar tools, which may transfer the wilt-causing disease from one vine to another. Disinfect your pruning tools with rubbing alcohol or hydrogen peroxide between pruning sessions, in both wet or dry weather. If you do have to remove infected chickpea vines, dispose of them in a paper bag rather than leaving the uprooted plants nearby, or composting them.
The spores that cause wilting in chickpeas can persist in soil for as long as five years. To prevent them attacking your beans year after year, practice crop rotation whenever possible. For home gardeners, the most practical way to do this is to grow different vegetables in different beds each year, rotating them annually so that chickpeas and other legumes don't occupy the same bed year after year. Under normal circumstances, a rotation schedule of two or three years is usually adequate to ensure crop health. If spore-based diseases are an issue, however, it's best not to plant chickpeas in the same place until five years have passed.