How to Trim Muscadines

Prune the previous summer’s growth during the plant's dormant stage. Wait until the end of winter to prune. Avoid trimming the vines between November and the middle of January because doing so can injure or kill the vines. Pruning in late January may result in your vines bleeding; this is less dangerous to the plant’s health than trimming too early in the dormant season, however.

Cut back last season’s shoots to create spurs approximately 2- to 4-inches long with two to four buds on each spur. Space a younger plant’s spurs about 4- to 6-inches from its neighbors; they become spur clusters as the muscadines mature. Thin all the spur clusters on older plants or remove every third or fourth growth to promote healthy plants.

Remove the spurs growing on the underside of the cordons -- arms on the wire -- and the clusters growing downward first as these growths usually produce low quality fruit if left on the plant. Trimming the spur clusters after the third growing season improves the plant’s health. Indeed, the plant's fruit production will be better compared to waiting to prune the plant until after the fourth year.

Inspect the cordons as you trim your muscadines. Remove all wood coming from the trunks for improved cordon health. Cut off diseased and weak cordons, training other shoots to replace them. Remove tendrils as you find them because they can strangle growth if left wrapped around cordons.

Consider purchasing a mechanical sickle bar-type cutter if you have several acres of plants and the initial purchase price is cost-effective. Do not mechanically trim back your plants into wood during the first year if your plants are over two years-old. Follow up any work done with a mechanical bar sickle or gas-powered hedger with a close examination of the plants, removing by hand spurs that are too close together along with tendrils.