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Growing Plumerias in Texas

Exotic-looking, fragrant plumeria flowers (Plumeria spp.) make this subtropical plant a coveted garden subject. Native to Mexico, Central America, parts of South America and the Caribbean, plumeria is hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 through 11. It now grows worldwide as a garden or container plant, and many hybrids exist with exciting colors. Texas has a coastal strip of USDA zone 9 and a southernmost area of zone 10 where plumeria, also called frangipani, can grow.
  1. Portable Plumerias

    • Even outside Texas' subtropical areas, you can grow plumeria in containers. However, plumeria can't tolerate frost. When temperatures dip below 40 degrees Fahrenheit move to the garage or shed, maintaining temperature above 40 F, advises Barbara Randolph of the Plumeria Society of America at the Southeast Texas Gardener website. After the danger of frost has passed, move back outdoors and resume watering. Allow the top inch or two of soil to dry between waterings, which may happen every other day in hot regions of Texas. Put containers on wooden surfaces such as decks rather than on concrete to avoid heating the root zone. Some cultivars are reluctant bloomers in Texas heat and do better in partial shade; otherwise, plumerias need at least 6 hours of sun daily. Fertilize with a high phosphorus fertilizer such as 8-32-16 every two to three weeks through the growing season until the end of August, applying 2 tablespoons per plant.

    Roots In the Ground

    • In most winters, plumerias tolerate being outdoors in coastal and southern Texas. However, occasional hard freeze down to 20 degrees Fahrenheit occur even in Galveston or Brownsville. Make plans to protect your in-ground plumeria when killing frosts are predicted. It's prudent to keep your most prized plumerias in containers. Plumerias need excellent drainage in the garden, with raised beds if necessary. Apply high phosphorus fertilizer every other week at the rate of 4 1/2 cups per 10 feet wide of garden bed, stopping in September.

    Winter Rest

    • As days shorten and cool, plumerias signal the end of their growing period by some of the leaves yellowing and dropping. Reduce watering and allow plants to enter dormancy. Garden plants don't look their best in winter with all their leaves gone, but the succulent grayish stems still have interest. Move container plants into cool to warm, well-ventilated areas such as garages or indoors where frost won't touch them. Greenhouse conditions aren't advised because of the high humidity. Remove all the foliage from the plant to prevent pathogens from growing in the leaf litter.

    New Plants

    • Propagate hybrid plumerias from cuttings so you can replicate the parent's characteristics. In Texas, May through July is ideal for taking 12- to 24-inch-long plumeria cuttings. Use a sharp knife or pruning shears, wiped with rubbing alcohol before each cut. Let the wound heal for two weeks. Dip the end in water and then rooting hormone. Fill a clean 1-gallon container with a mixture of 2 parts of perlite to 1 part of peat, leaving 1 inch of space at the top. Place the bottom 4 inches of the cutting into the potting mix, fill the top 1 inch with pea gravel and water thoroughly. Place in a sunny spot -- unless the cultivar requires filtered sun or partial shade -- and water again when the mix is dry. The cutting should root within 90 days.