Prune hyacinths with a small pair of gardening shears or a sharp knife, as preferred. Avoid pulling on the foliage or attempting to break off stems, as this can uproot or damage the hyacinth corms. Always use clean tools to prune the hyacinths to prevent the spread of disease. Wash shears or knives before each use in a dilute bleach solution of 1 part bleach to 9 parts water so any illness-causing bacteria are destroyed.
Deadheading is one of the most vital pruning requirements. Deadheading consists of removing the spent blossoms before they begin expending energy producing seed. Seed production robs energy from the bulbs, which can decrease the health and productivity of the plants the following year. Hyacinths produce multiple blooms along the stem, so deadhead only after all the blooms have begun to wilt. Cut off the flower head beneath the bottommost flower with the shears or knife. Leave the foliage and stems in place during deadheading so they can continue to collect energy for the plant.
Hyacinth foliage and stems begin to yellow and die back naturally approximately 6 weeks after you deadhead the last flower. Prune these at any time once they begin to yellow by cutting off the stems and leaves at soil level. Avoid pulling on the foliage as you cut, and do not cut beneath soil level, as you may damage the bulb. Discard the removed foliage after pruning. Foliage left in the bed may attract nesting insect pests to the garden.
It's difficult to locate the hyacinth bulbs once you've pruned back the foliage. This poses a problem if you must dig up and divide the corms later in the year or if you wish to plant other plants in that location during the summer. Mark the location of the bulbs before you prune to avoid this issue. Use small plant marker stakes for each bulb. Insert the stakes into the soil behind the foliage before you prune. Remove the stakes only after you have divided or replanted the bed.