How to Winterize Evergreens

Cluster three to four stakes around an evergreen shrub. Sink the bottoms of stakes into the ground, 4 to 6 inches deep, and bind the tops together to form a tepee over the shrub. If the shrub is over 4 feet tall, don't bind the tops together. Wind twine around the top of the stakes to bring trailing or extended branches closer to the main stem. Prune extremely long or awkward stems with clippers. This method can also be used to shelter dwarf evergreens in containers. Your goal is to prevent harsh wind damage and keep heavy ice away from main stems and roots.

Place rows of stakes in front of and behind shrubs in hedges, spacing stakes 3 to 6 feet apart or one pair per bush. Weave twine between the front and back stakes, through the bushes. Rows of twine at 2-foot intervals, bottom to top, should be adequate to stabilize your hedge against storm damage.

Staple burlap yardage to stakes in areas where you are concerned about damage from wind gusts. Keep the burlap below the tops of shrubs so they still receive sunlight. Check the burlap fencing between storms for stability; wind can remove burlap as well as damage shrubs.

Place chopped branch lengths, mulch, wood chips or even wadded newspaper inside your twine and burlap fences if ice damage is a major issue in your region. Pile these insulators 18 to 24 inches high inside your shelters to keep ice from settling heavily on major branches and over root systems. After storms, use a rake or hoe to stir your insulation and remove heavy ice or snow deposits.

Water your sheltered evergreens thoroughly until the ground freezes. Dry wind combined with dry soil can desiccate even a large evergreen. If there is little snow or a long winter dry spell -- three weeks or more -- water your evergreens again. Aim your hose or watering can toward plant roots; avoid soaking the insulating mulch if possible.