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DIY In-Ground Pools

In-ground swimming pools are looked at by many as a costly luxury that can only be installed by trained professionals. However, the skilled do-it-yourselfer can get the job done on the cheap. With a project this large, the best method is to break it down into a logical progression of basic and more manageable tasks. Before beginning your in-ground pool project, check with local zoning laws and ordinances to ensure that your pool is permitted in your location.

Things You'll Need

  • Tape measure
  • Wooden stakes
  • White spray paint
  • Marker
  • Long pole
  • Heavy excavation equipment (bulldozer/backhoe)
  • Shovels
  • Hydraulic rock splitter
  • 2-by-4-inch stud
  • Level
  • Drainage rock
  • PVC piping
  • Gravel
  • 3/8 inch and 1/2 inch rebar
  • Steel wire ties
  • "Gunite" cement
  • Cement trowel
  • Cement float
  • Garden hose
  • Soil compactor
  • Foam cement mold
  • Filtration system
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Instructions

    • 1

      Draw a plan of the pool you wish to build on paper. Factor in the length, width, depth and any slope you wish to include along the floor of the swimming area from end to end.

    • 2

      Measure out the dimensions in the area you plan to build using your tape measure. Mark the perimeter of the pool with stakes or white spray paint. Use your marker and tape measure and place markings on your long pole at each foot.

    • 3

      Dig the hole in which the pool will sit using your heavy equipment, such as a bulldozer or a backhoe, or manually with shovels. Follow your paper plans and paint or stake an outline to ensure proper sizing. Use your measuring pole to judge the depth of the hole as you dig. If there are large rocks or boulders in the hole, use a rock splitter to break them down then remove them by hand. Once you have dug the hole, use your level attached to an 8- or 12-foot 2-by-4 inch stud to check that the surface is flat.

    • 4

      Place a 6- to 8-inch deep layer of rock into the pool base for drainage so that any excess water will find its way downward and away from the pool rather than sitting on the cement and causing it to crumble over time.

    • 5

      Decide on a location to use as the hub for your pool filter and pumps. Make sure it is not located near your house or any other important structures that are vulnerable to moisture. Make sure it will allow excess water and backwash to drain away easily. Set the equipment on top of a cement platform at least 6 inches high.

    • 6

      Align your equipment so that your pool pump empties into your filter and your filter empties empty into your heater, if you are using one. From the heater, your piping should run to a series of jets through which clean water is released into the pool. For the intake of dirty water, your piping should lead from the pool skimmers and bottom drains into your pump where it begins the process of being cleaned and returned to the pool. Follow the manufacturer's guidelines for each of your filter and pumping components to connect them correctly. Different systems may require different connections.

    • 7

      Dig a 6- to 8-inch notch from the filter area to the pool in which you will lay your drain delivery piping. Use 2-inch piping to run the path from the pump to the edge of the pool where your skimmers will be located. A large size pool will require at least 5 total drains, 3 skimmers and 2 floor drains. The skimmers will be about halfway submerged when all is said and done.

    • 8

      Stem off a second line from the bottom of the skimmer and run this line down to the center of the bottom of the pool using the same notch method. Run separate 1 1/2-inch piping from the filter or heater to the pool where it should be set within the wall to feed a series of jets. Attach the skimmer, drain and jet fixtures now before moving on.

    • 9

      Place a layer of gravel into the pool bottom thick enough to cover all your piping and structural features and create a level and uniform surface over which your concrete will set.

    • 10

      Install 3/8- and 1/2-inch steel rebar throughout the bottom and up the sides of the pool interior. Fasten the rebar together using steel wire ties and ground the entire latticework to prevent electrical shock from the filtration system.

    • 11

      Spray the walls and floor of the pool with a "gunite" cement and sand blend to a thickness of about 1 foot. Use your floats and cement trowels to carve steps and any other underwater structures you may desire. Smooth the entire surface area of the pool to remove the rough edges and create a safe swimming environment. Continually wet the cement with your garden hose to keep it moist as it goes through the curing and solidifying process. The process should take 48 hours, after which you may move on to the next step.

    • 12

      Fill in any gaps around the surface of the pool edge with the soil you removed from the hole. Press the soil down with your compactor. Use your level and 2-by-4 to create a flat surface.

    • 13

      Lay 3/8 inch steel rebar around the edge of the pool where you intend the deck and walkway to be. Place your foam cement mold around the rebar to create a frame into which you will pour your cement. Mix and pour high-strength cement into the mold and allow to dry. Remove the framework once the cement has dried.