DIY Free-Form Pool

Lay out the proposed perimeter of your pool with rope. Adjust the design by moving the rope until you're satisfied with the shape of the proposed pool. Pay attention to how close to the house your pool will be. The distance between the pool and your house should be at least equal to the pool's depth. Ignoring this rule will require you to add extra steel to reinforce the pool's wall. Also avoid having the house's roof extend over the pool, as the runoff can pollute the pool's water. Plan the features and plantings you'll be incorporating into your design to ensure that they won't damage or be damaged by their proximity to the pool or house. Decide whether your pool will be all one depth or contain varying depths.

Trace the finalized shape of the pool on the ground with the spray paint and remove the rope. Mark any areas of varying depth. Start digging the perimeter with shovels. Once the perimeter has been outlined by hand, you can do the rest of the excavation with a backhoe excavator. Excavate the deeper areas of the pool initially, then move on to the shallower areas. Drag a bull float or screed over the surface of the bottom of the pool to smooth and fill in any holes. Check that all shelves and platforms have no high or low points by placing a level at various points and ensuring the bubble in the level remains between the lines on the glass. Cover the bottom of the pool with a 3-inch layer of sand. This will help protect the liner from puncture.

You can easily order a custom fit pool liner for your freeform pool. However, if you're trying to save money by not using patterned pool liners, you can use 30 mil synthetic rubber sheeting. To estimate the amount of sheeting needed, measure the pool's depth at its deepest point and double that figure. Measure the length and width of the pool and add the doubled depth to both measurements. Add an extra 2 feet to each measurement to account for overlap and mistakes. For example, if your pool is 5 feet deep, 10 feet wide and 20 feet long, you will need a 22-foot-wide by 32-foot-long piece of sheeting at the minimum.

Install the pumps, drains, filter and skimmers in your pool kit per the manufacturer's instructions. Generally, you will need to install a drain at the bottom of the pool. Skimmers are installed at the water line. They will suck water and floating debris from the water to the filter. Both the drain and the skimmers connect to the pump and then the filter. Depending on the size of your pool a second pump may be required to send the filtered water through the return pipes to the chlorinator (if one is installed) then back into the pool.

Open and inspect your pool liner for tears or holes. Smooth the liner into place along the bottom of the pool according to the manufacturer's directions. Fit the liner to the shelves and levels created during excavation. Smooth the edges of the liner up and over the edges of the pool wall. For a natural pond-like look, anchor the liner by covering the lip of the pool with large flagstones and boulders. For a more polished look, install coping around the edge of your pool.

Add a layer of clean pea gravel to the bottom of the pool. Fill the pool and observe the water level over the next week. Though some water loss should be expected as a result of evaporation, a rapid change in the water level is a sign that there is a leak in the liner. If there are no signs of leakage, start adding any planned plantings around the pool as necessary to create a pond-like feel. You're now ready to start enjoying your pool.