Homemade Bridge Saw

Work Table Construction

• 1

  Lay two pieces of 8-foot angle iron parallel to each other. Mark every 1 foot with the chalk and tape measure. Set the two pieces of 8-foot angle iron 4 feet apart. Turn the two pieces so the "L" of the 90-degree angles are facing each other.

• 2

  Set each piece of 4-foot angle iron on each 1-foot mark. Make sure the 4-foot angle iron is perpendicular to the 8-foot pieces and the point of the "V" is facing up. Weld each 4-foot piece of angle iron in place.

• 3

  Turn the work table over. Mark the center of the 8-foot pieces of angle iron. Weld one piece of the 1-foot angle iron on each corner of the work table in the vertical position. Weld the last two pieces of 1-foot angle iron on the center marks you made on the 8-foot angle iron, making legs for the table.

Bridge Rail Construction

• 4

  Set the beams with one flange touching the ground and the other flange facing up. Mark the center of both 8-foot sections of I-beam with the chalk and tape measure. Weld each 1-foot I-beam on top of an 8-foot I-beam in the vertical position starting at each corner and one 1-foot I-beam on the center mark you just made. Turn the I-beams over so they are standing on the three legs you just welded onto the bridge rail.

• 5

  Move each section of bridge rail to the side of the work table so each is setting 1-foot away on either side of the table. Weld the other six pieces of 1-foot angle iron from the legs of the work table to the legs of the bridge rails. Align the legs of the bridge rails to the work table legs before making this bracing. Secure the bridge rails to the work table by completing each bracing weld.

• 6

  Set one piece of remaining 8-foot angle iron on top of each bridge rail. Center each piece of 8-foot angle iron on each piece of 8-foot section of I-beam. Make sure the point of the "V" of the angle iron is facing up, making a pyramid for the caster wheel assemblies to run on top of.

Bridge Assembly Construction

• 7

  Set the two 2-foot box channel pieces out horizontally on the floor or workbench. Measure 4 inches from each end and mark with the chalk. Drill a 1-inch hole all the way through the box channel for the caster wheel assembly shafts to slide through. Insert one caster wheel assembly into each drilled hole to use as bridge wheels.

• 8

  Mark the center of each 2-foot piece of box channel and mark with the chalk. Set each piece of box channel on top of the bridge rails. Set the 6-foot I-beam on the center mark of the 2-foot piece of box channel. Mark the position of the 6-foot I-beam on the each 2-foot section of box channel.

• 9

  Attach one C-clamp to each side of the 6-foot I-beam, securing it to each section of box channel. Weld the 6-foot I-beam to each piece of box channel to finish the bridge of the saw. Remove the C-clamps and weld the other side of the 6-foot I-beam to the box channel.

Trolley and Saw Construction

• 10

  Set the push trolley on a workbench. Remove the bolts from the spacer bolt with a ratchet and socket on one side of the bolt and a wrench on the other side of the bolt. Slide the spacer bolt out of the trolley and set each trolley wheel assembly on the table with the outside plates facing up. Measure the center of one trolley. Place and weld the 4-inch steel rod on that spot, perpendicular to the trolley plate. Use this steel rod for the counterweights.

• 11

  Set the miter saw on a workbench and disassemble the saw from the miter table. Remove the swivel bolt on the back of the miter saw with a ratchet and socket. Slide the swivel pin out and pull off the saw from the miter assembly.

• 12

  Cut off the part of the miter saw table with a band saw, leaving the swivel pin connection in tact. Set the swivel pin assembly you just cut off the miter saw table on the other trolley plate that does not have the steel rod. Center the swivel pin assembly on the trolley plate so the swivel pin is facing out. Weld the swivel pin assembly onto the trolley plate. Reassemble the trolley, but leave it loose enough to fit over the bottom flange of the bridge saw I-beam.

• 13

  Slide the under-hung trolley assembly onto the bottom flange of the I-beam and tighten the spacer bolt until the flanges of the trolley wheels are within 1/16-inch from the flange of the bridge saw I-beam. Roll the trolley across the I-beam to ensure it travels freely.

• 14

  Install the granite wet cutting blade onto the miter saw by removing the blade locking pin with the wrench that came with the miter saw. Secure the wet cutting blade in place. Attach the miter saw arm and motor assembly to the swivel pin assembly you welded to the trolley. Slide a 10-pound counterweight onto the steel rod, located on the other side of the trolley to counter the weight of the miter saw arm and motor assembly.

• 15

  Weld the hose clamp on the side of the miter saw blade cover so you can point the water hose at the blade. Use a small tack weld to attach the hose clamp miter saw blade cover.