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How to Install Weeping Tile Around Bay Windows

A homeowner whose basement or crawlspace is plagued by standing water or regular moisture may install weeping tile around the structure's outer perimeter, against the foundation or footing. Installing weeping tile on straight sides of the structure is relatively simple, but maneuvering around corners or special features, such as bay windows or turrets, is slightly more complex. The weeping tile must be installed properly around these features and the remainder of the structure to ensure that it will function as intended.

Things You'll Need

  • Shovel, mattocks and other digging tools
  • Level
  • Filter fabric or landscaping cloth
  • Utility knife
  • Clean, coarse gravel
  • Hacksaw, if needed
  • Elbow
  • Adhesive, if needed
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Instructions

    • 1

      Excavate an area for the tile next to the foundation, digging a trench about a foot wide to the depth of the footing. The trench must extend to a suitable outlet where the weeping tile can discharge, such as a ditch, retention pond or drain field. Another option involves digging the trench under the footing so it can direct water to a sump pump in the basement.

    • 2

      Shape the trench bottom, making sure that the trench slopes slightly toward the outlet. The trench bottom and weeping tile should have a slope of at least 2 percent, meaning that for every 100 horizontal inches of tile, there should be at least a 2-inch drop.

    • 3

      Measure and cut lengths of weeping tile for each straight section of trench. The number of sections and their lengths for the area around the bay window or other features will depend on the sharpness of the angles and type of piping used for the weeping tile. If the perforated weeping tile is an extremely flexible corrugated plastic, for example, it may not require any elbows to curve around a bay window that curves only gradually. With rigid weeping tile or sharp corners, multiple short sections must be cut and attached to each other. Use a hacksaw or utility knife to cut the pipe, depending on the material type.

    • 4

      Join sections of weeping tile and elbows to fit around the bay window unless a single, curved length of tile will be used. Attach the cut sections to each other by sliding, screwing or gluing the ends into elbows. The method of attachment should depend on the specific weeping tile material or system used. For example, if perforated PVC piping is used, glue each pipe end into an elbow or other fitting by painting both with PVC primer, then cement and slide the pipe into the elbow, rotating it a quarter-turn and holding it in place for 15 seconds.

    • 5

      Re-form the trench around the bay window, if needed, to accommodate the new shape of the constructed tiles. The piping should be as centered in the trench as possible. Again, check to make sure that the trench bottom will allow the weeping tile to slope towards the outlet.

    • 6

      Line the trench with filter fabric or landscaping cloth.

    • 7

      Place about 2 inches of clean, coarse gravel in the bottom of the trench.

    • 8

      Place all of the sections of weeping tile in the trench dug next to the foundation. Use an elbow fitting at each corner; slide, screw or glue the pipe ends into each elbow.

    • 9

      Check the pipe to make sure that the slope established by the trench bottom remains. Make any necessary adjustments to the underlying gravel to achieve the correct slope.

    • 10

      Cover the pipe with 6 to 8 inches of clean, coarse gravel.

    • 11

      Lay filter fabric on top of the gravel layer. In many situations this is not necessary, but if the soil is silty and could easily clog the gravel and weeping tile, it may be warranted.

    • 12

      Fill the remainder of the excavated trench with gravel or fill that was removed during the excavation, and vegetate as desired. Avoid using plants that have extensive root systems that could penetrate the weeping tile.