How to Install an Asphalt or Concrete Driveway

Preparation

• 1

  Stake off the edge of the area of the driveway using a hammer to drive 24-inch wooden grade stakes into the ground. Place a grade stake at every change of direction or change of elevation. Driveways should slope away from a building for at least the first ten feet.

• 2

  Attach a mason's string to the grade stake closest to the building. Position the line to be level with the surface top of the new driveway elevation.

• 3

  Excavate the area of the driveway to the required depth. Concrete driveways require a minimum thickness of 8 inches: 4 inches of stone base and 4 inches of concrete. Asphalt driveways require a minimum depth of 7 inches: 4 inches of stone base, 2 inches of base course asphalt and 1 inch of top or finish course of asphalt.

• 4

  Install the stone base. Use clean stone sized 3/4-inch to 1-1/2-inches in diameter (this size stone is frequently referred to as #57 stone). For smaller areas, use a flat shovel and garden rake to level out the stone. For larger areas a skid loader or tractor may be required.

• 5

  Compact the stone using a gas-powered plate tamper.

Concrete Driveway

• 6

  Form up the sides using 1-by-4 or 1-by 6 lumber. Set the top edges of the forms to be even with the string line. Use additional wood stakes to secure the forms. Attach the forms to the stakes using coarse threaded screws. Install stakes every 4 feet and at all corners and joints. Place expansion strips very five feet.

• 7

  Install 6-inch by 6-inch wire mesh reinforcing (also called welded wire fabric). Overlap the wire mesh by at least 6 inches at all joints. In some locations subject to greater ground swelling, rebar should be installed instead. Install 3/8-inch thick (#3) rebar. Lay the rebar out on a grid pattern, spaced 6 or 8 inches apart. Tie the rebar together at each intersection using tie wire. Be sure all reinforcing, mesh or rebar, will be in the center of the concrete.

• 8

  Pour the cement mix. For driveways, 3000 or 3500 psi concrete is sufficient. Start pouring the cement in the area closest to the building. Use the flat shovel and garden rake to spread the cement out as you pour. Two people should use a single board (a 2-by-4 works well) to screed the cement mix level. Use a sawing motion, moving the screed down the top edges of the forms to level off the cement.

• 9

  Smooth the surface of the cement using a bull float: a large magnesium float on a long pole. While the cement is still wet, use a shovel to remove material from high spots and fill in low spots. Be sure to go back over these spots with the bull float.

• 10

  Create control joints in the cement, in place of expansion strips if desired, once it starts to stiffen by using a concrete jointing tool. Control joints can also be created later by using a concrete saw.

• 11

  Use a steel finish trowel to create a smooth surface as the concrete begins to set, but is still wet to the touch.

• 12

  Push a stiff broom lightly across the surface to create a "broom finish" as the concrete stiffens. The concrete should not be wet to the touch, but a fingerprint can be left in the surface when touched. Allow the concrete to cure thoroughly.

• 13

  Remove the forms and back fill against the driveway surface with topsoil. If control joints were not put in when the concrete was wet, install them now using a concrete floor saw.

Asphalt Driveway

• 14

  Install the first (base) course of asphalt using the string as a guide. The base course should be at least two inches thick.

• 15

  Compact the asphalt using the compaction roller. Place hot mix asphalt on all low points and re-compact until smooth.

• 16

  Use the paving machine to install the top (finish) course of the asphalt. The finish course should be at least 1 inch thick.

• 17

  Compact the top course using the compaction roller.

• 18

  Remove the grade stakes and clean up. Asphalt sets very quickly.