How to Cement Driveways

Mark the location of the driveway on the ground by spray-painting it.

Excavate a hole for the driveway inside the spray-painted lines, using a 1 1/2-ton excavator. Follow local building codes when determining the depth of the hole, as it can vary by location.

Drive wooden stakes into the ground every 3 feet around the edge of the hole. Nail 2-by-4-inch boards to the stakes along the inner edges of the hole. This acts as a form for the top edges of the driveway.

Place a vapor barrier on the soil in the bottom of the hole to help protect the foundation from moisture damage. The vapor barrier is a plastic sheet that blocks ground moisture.

Construct a base for the driveway by filling the bottom of the hole with sand or gravel, then placing rebar or wire mesh on top. Again, follow local building codes regarding the precise way to construct the base in your location.

Hire a cement contractor to pour the cement into the form. With a project this size, you won't be able to mix enough concrete and make the pour quickly enough.

Drag a 2-by-4-inch board across the surface of the concrete. This is called screeding. It smooths the concrete's surface and shows low spots in the pour. Fill the low spots with concrete, and screed the surface again.

Slide a bull float over the slab to further smooth the concrete. To use the bull float, slide it across the driveway with the back edge tilted up in the air. Lower it when you reach the other side, then pull it back towards you.

Cover the driveway with plastic sheets while it cures. For the first five to seven days after the pour, lift the sheets and add water to the concrete to keep it damp, then re-cover the concrete. Allow the concrete to cure underneath the plastic for an additional five to seven days.

Lift the plastic off the concrete, and remove the form from the edges of the driveway. Fill any gaps around the edges of the driveway with dirt.