It's helpful to put your vision for the sidewalk on paper before you begin breaking ground. Make a simple diagram of your yard and draw potential paths for the sidewalk. Depending on the style of your landscape, consider a winding route past the garden or a straightforward, angled walkway from point A to B. Once you have a general design plan, place two ropes parallel along the borders and walk the site of the sidewalk. Though a 2-foot wide sidewalk is comfortable for one person, you'll need at least 4 feet to accommodate wheelchairs. Expand the width to 4 or 5 feet if your budget and space allows.
Two methods used to construct a sidewalk are wet and dry installation. Your budget, experience and chosen surface material will help you decide which method to use. Both methods require you to excavate the site and tamp the ground before laying aggregate to ensure stability. Wet installation calls for a foundation of tamped aggregate and a slab of concrete. Mortar is then spread over the concrete and pavers, stones or other materials are set in the mortar. Dry Installation is a good fit for novice do-it-yourselfers as it involves a thicker layer of tamped aggregate covered with a bed of sand.
The primary challenge of laying pavers, tiles or stones in a bed of sand is to make them level with each other. Adjust each piece as you go until it sits even and doesn't wobble as it's difficult to back-track without disturbing other stones. Lay a board over each row or section and apply equal force with your hands or a mallet to embed the stones in the sand. Unlike with dry installation, time is limited when setting pavers in mortar. Know your pattern before mixing the mortar and spread enough to set about six pieces at a time. For both dry and wet installation, secure metal edge restraints along the sides of the sidewalk to hold the pieces in position.
Poured concrete sidewalks are low maintenance and blend with a variety of landscaping styles. It's advantageous to have at least two helpers to ensure the pour goes smoothly and the surface is level. While a 4-inch slab is thick enough to support normal wear and tear, pouring a 6-inch slab is useful if you'll transport heavy equipment on occasion. In addition to the aggregate base, you'll need to build form boards to shape the concrete until it hardens. Forms should be placed at the height you want the sidewalk to be. Lay expansion strips across the width of the sidewalk every 8 feet. They expand and contract, absorbing tension from the concrete to help prevent cracks.