How to Form a Sidewalk

Lay out the sidewalk design with hardboard siding strips, bending the siding to fit the shape; using the boards now determines how sharp curves can be. Hold the boards in place with stakes on both sides, mark the outline with spray paint, then remove the boards.

Dig out the area to a depth of eight inches below the usual height of the grass; this allows room for four inches of gravel and a 4-inch slab of concrete that is even with the top height of the lawn. A mini-excavator or sod cutter may be rented, or hand tools such as shovels, pick axes and axes may be used to dig by hand.

Dig out less in areas where water tends to collect so water drains away from this area. A slight peak in the middle of the path helps achieve equal drainage on both sides.

Drive stakes in the ground along one inside edge of the excavated area; the stakes should start about 1 foot from the ends and be spaced 2 to 3 feet apart. Screw the 1/2-by-6-inch hardboard siding into the stakes.

Install the 1/2-by-6-inch hardboard siding form boards for the opposite side of the path in the same way, but run a board across the tops, spanning the two sides, to ensure the two sides are evenly spaced and level. Pound in stakes and screw the form board to the stake after checking the spacing with the gauge board; repeat this for the rest of the sidewalk to complete the form.

Tamp the soil base with a hand tamper or plate compactor to ensure a smooth, packed surface.

Pour and spread gravel to a depth of 4 inches inside the hardboard siding forms with the back side of a rake; pack soil between the outside of the forms and the grass, and pack the gravel against to insides to give the forms and curves stability.

Roll out reinforcing wire mesh and cut it to fit inside the path, three inches away from the forms. Lay the wire mesh flat on top of the gravel. Twist the ends together to connect separate sheets of wire mesh, if applicable.

Tap a 2-by-4-inch board at the end of the sidewalk to use as a temporary bulkhead. If the concrete will be poured in sections, a temporary bulkhead should be placed at least every 30 feet to allow room for an expansion strip.

Put small mounds of concrete down to hold the wire mesh two inches off the concrete, then pour the concrete into the forms. Work with small sections at a time, adding mounds of concrete under the mesh to elevate it as you go.

Lay a 2-by-4-inch screed board across the 1/2-by-6-inch hardboard siding form boards and drag it down the length of the path while using a back-and-forth sawing motion to level the concrete. Add more concrete as needed to fill low spots, then run the screed over it again. Continue this action to the end of the section or sidewalk.

Run a bull float over the surface after screeding to encourage the aggregate in the concrete to sink. The bull float should be drawn across the sidewalk from one side to the other.

Hand float the concrete surface with a sweeping motion using a magnesium float. Wait until the water on the surface disappears before beginning this step.

Run an edging tool along both edges to round the outside corners of the sidewalk. Work with a 1- to 2-foot section at a time; lift the edge and reposition the tool with each new pass.

Place a straightedge perpendicular over the boards and use a groover to cut even control joints along the sidewalk. Evenly divide the length of the sidewalk to determine the position for the control joints.

Drag a broom across the sidewalk to texture the surface; if the concrete clumps, it is still too wet, so wait about 15 minutes. The broom strokes should overlap about six inches.

Remove the temporary bulkheads and replace them with an expansion strip before continuing with the next section of concrete; follow the same procedures for pouring, screeding, floating, edging, grooving and texturing each section. Wait until the concrete has set completely before removing the temporary bulkhead at the end of the sidewalk.