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How to Keep a Gravel Path With Masonry

Gravel paths add decorative accents to landscapes while simplifying maintenance. But loose gravel can be difficult to keep in place. Masonry edging keeps loose material in place and prevents adjoining grounds and materials from running onto the gravel pathway. It also helps provide a distinctive outline to the path, giving a finished look and line that draws the viewer's eye into the landscape. Masonry edging, such as brick, fieldstone or concrete, encourages people to stay on the pathway and keeps plants and flowers from getting trampled. Whether formal or casual, there is a masonry edging choice well-suited for your gravel path.

Things You'll Need

  • Spray paint
  • Bricks or fieldstones
  • Straight edge shovel
  • Sand
  • Rubber-head mallet
  • Benderboard, 1-by-6-inch
  • Wood stakes, 1-by-2-inch, 1 foot long
  • Hammer
  • Galvanized nails, 2 inch
  • Level
  • Concrete
  • Wheelbarrow
  • Straight-edged piece of lumber, 1 foot long
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Instructions

  1. Brick or Fieldstone Masonry Edging

    • 1

      Mark the edges of the intended path, using spray paint.

    • 2

      Dig a trench along the spray-painted guidelines, deep enough to cover half of a brick when it is put into place, plus 1 additional inch for a sand base, using the straight edge shovel. The width is a personal choice, depending on whether one or more bricks or fieldstones are desired.

    • 3

      Shovel 1 inch of sand into and along the entire trench bottom, using the flat shovel.

    • 4

      Set the bricks in place, one at a time, placing them at right angles or diagonal to the path, as desired. Bricks should sit halfway into the trench. If using fieldstones, a third of their height should sit in the trench.

    • 5

      Tap the bricks or fieldstones firmly into place using a rubber-head mallet to ensure a solid fit.

    Concrete Masonry Edging

    • 6

      Mark the intended path edges with spray paint. Dig a 6-inch deep trench along the spray-painted guidelines, using a straight edge shovel. The width is determined as desired.

    • 7

      Place benderboards inside the trench, 1 inch in from the walls on each side. Pound a 1-by-2-inch wood stake into the ground between the benderboards and the trench wall every 2 feet along the path length. Secure the benderboards to each stake, using a hammer and nail. Use a level to ensure the tops of the benderboards are even.

    • 8

      Mix the concrete with water according to the manufacturer's directions, using a wheelbarrow and shovel. Shovel the concrete in the trench, filling the forms to the top. Tap the form with the shovel handle to vibrate and settle the wet concrete into the sides and bottom of the trench.

    • 9

      Lay a straight-edged piece of wood across the top of the form, resting it on the benderboards. Pull the wood along the top of the benderboard form, leveling the cement surface and removing excess cement.

    • 10

      Smooth cement edges along the inside benderboard walls after the visible water is absorbed but while the concrete is still workable. Allow the concrete to dry thoroughly.