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How to Redo a Sidewalk With a Drainage Problem

Poor drainage can destroy a sidewalk, creating a hazard and taking away from the appearance of the yard. If pavement has an excessive number of deep cracks, patching it will only be a temporary fix. Correcting this issue is a two-part project that entails laying a basic underground drainage system beside the sidewalk and redoing the pavement. Do-it-yourselfers should set aside a few weekends to work on this project as removing a sidewalk is labor intensive.

Things You'll Need

  • Jackhammer
  • Sledgehammer
  • Wheelbarrow
  • Dumpster
  • Shovel
  • Tarp
  • Buckets
  • Compactor
  • Gravel
  • 2-by-4-inch boards
  • Screw
  • Drill
  • Brackets
  • Concrete mixer
  • Concrete
  • Gauge rake
  • Metal straightedge
  • Squeegee
  • Firm broom
  • Trowel
  • 4-inch PVC perforated drain pipes
  • Wye and tee pipe fittings
  • Flood-tolerant groundcover
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Instructions

  1. Redo the Sidewalk

    • 1

      Remove the damaged sidewalk. Angle a jackhammer into the sides and cracks to dislodge large chunks of concrete. Use a sledgehammer to break the pieces into smaller, more manageable sizes. Transport the pieces with a wheelbarrow and store them in a dumpster. Call a local concrete recycler to collect the concrete for re-use or see if your dump will accept it.

    • 2

      Dig out the gravel foundation with a shovel and dump it on a nearby tarp. If it’s dirty, dump it in buckets with warm water and leave it out in the sun to remove as much dirt as possible so you can reuse it for the new sidewalk. Continue digging out the foundation until all of the topsoil is removed to allow for a deeper foundation that will improve the site’s drainage.

    • 3

      Slope the bottom of the site so one side is about 1 inch higher than the other side to direct water off of the surface. Run a plate compactor to compress the dirt at the bottom.

    • 4

      Fill the site with gravel until it is 3 inches from ground level. Run the compactor over the gravel so the edges wedge together into an almost solid foundation.

    • 5

      Fit 2-by-4-inch form boards against the inside walls. Use a drill to attach the boards end-to-end with brackets so they’re easy to remove once the concrete hardens.

    • 6

      Mix concrete in a concrete mixer and pour it over the gravel from one end to the other. Rake it into corners with a gauge rake. Push a long, metal straight-edge across the top of the form to screed the surface or push excess concrete into low areas. Once the surface is level, push a squeegee over it to remove any marks left by the board.

    • 7

      Push a firm broom across the surface after it hardens for about an hour. The broom will create shallow grooves for traction.

    • 8

      Cut straight control joints into the concrete every 4 feet by running the trowel along the straightedge. The joints should be 1/4 the depth of the slab, or 1 inch deep for a 4-inch thick sidewalk. The joints are planned cracks that will help prevent jagged cracks from forming.

    Install Drainage

    • 9

      Dig a trench along the low-lying end of the sidewalk with a shovel. The trench should be 8 inches wide and about 6 inches deeper than the sidewalk foundation. Direct the course of the trench so it runs parallel with the sidewalk and empties into a safe outlet like a dry area or ditch.

    • 10

      Fill the bottom with 6 inches with gravel.

    • 11

      Lay 4-inch PVC perforated drain pipes over the gravel, connecting the joints with tee or wye fittings that are large enough to accommodate a drain snake in case of a clog.

    • 12

      Cover the pipes with gravel and a top layer of soil. Plan flood-tolerant groundcover on top to avoid erosion.