Lay a rope parallel to each side of the driveway. Measure the width of your chosen edging material with a tape measure and adjust the space between the ropes and sidewalk edge to equal the edging width plus 2 inches. Landscape timbers, fieldstones, pavers and metal or plastic strip edging restraints are a few examples from which to choose.
Cut out the grass from between the ropes and walkway with a flat shovel and dump it in a wheelbarrow. Remove about 5 inches of topsoil, or enough to set the edging on a 4-inch base without it sitting higher than the walkway.
Tamp down the remaining soil with a manual tamper tool until it feels firm.
Pour 3 inches of crushed rock over the subsoil. Spread it level with a hand shovel, and tamp the rocks. Laying gravel beneath the edging improves drainage and protects the edging from a frost heave.
Spread a 1-inch bed of course grit sand over the rocks to provide a smooth surface for the edging.
Set the edging over the sand so it’s flush against the edge of the walkway. If you’re using bricks or pavers, position them perpendicular to the end bricks on the walkway. Continue setting each piece against the walkway and flush with adjacent edging.
Secure the edging into the ground. For edging restraints, hammer 12-inch long nail spikes through precut slots along the bottom. If you’re using timbers, drill post holes at an angle from top to bottom, and drive rebar through the holes with a sledgehammer.
Pack fine sand in the joints between the edging and the sidewalk. Moisten it with a hose so it clings to the materials, holding materials in place like cement.
Backfill space between the edging and the lawn with decorative gravel such as river rocks or pea gravel.