Pruning Cedar Topiary

Types

• Although widely known as cedars, the red and white cedars are not true cedars. Instead, they belong to either the juniper or cypress families of trees. Red cedar (Juniperus virginiana) is a small, evergreen conifer tree that grows in a columnar, pyramidal or oval shape. It has scaly, green or bluish-green foliage that can be spiky or smooth. Northern white cedar (Cupressaceae Thuja), or arborvitae, is a small to medium sized evergreen tree with scaly green flat foliage. Western redcedar (Thuja plicata) resembles northern white cedar and has flattened sprays of yellowish-green foliage. All three species are regular choices for topiary.

Tools

• Hand saws that cut on the pull stroke are the easiest saws to use. Pole saws can be used as long as branches are less than 20 feet from the ground. Use bypass hand shears for removing small branches. Do not use hedge shears or anvil-cut hand shears because they don’t produce clean cuts. In addition, hedge shears encourage excessive new growth. Don’t use axes because they leave rough stubs that don’t heal well.

Timing

• Prune cedars before new growth starts in the spring. They can be lightly pruned again after new growth is completed. Buds that produce the following year’s growth form late in the summer. Avoid pruning cedars after those buds form because trees will have to spend extra energy to form more buds and will become weakened before winter.

Dead Zone

• Arborvitae, junipers and other conifers develop “dead zones” in the center because the centers of these trees don’t receive enough sunlight. Although the branches in the center are living branches, not dead, new growth doesn’t develop from them because new buds can’t grow there. Be careful not to expose the dead zone when you’re pruning because new growth won’t be produced and you’ll have unattractive areas on your tree.

Tips

• Cedars are narrowleaf evergreens and they don’t tolerate severe pruning. In fact, heavy pruning can kill them. Most cedars only produce new growth on the outer 6 to 12 inches of a branch, while losing the oldest needles that are found near the center of the tree. Be careful not to prune off all the new growth or your tree branches will be bare. Always ensure that the base of your tree is wider than the top so the lower branches don’t become shaded and thin out. Trees growing in the shade don’t tolerate pruning. Choose a shape for your tree that is similar to its natural growth. For instance, if you want a cone shaped tree, your plant will need an upright growth instead of one that spreads. Spirals, lollipops and balls are easier to cut so they’re appropriate choices for beginners.