When to transplant the sapling depends on winters in your region. Folks in Dallas for instance, where the earth doesn’t freeze, should get the hawthorn sapling into the ground in the fall. Gardeners in cooler regions, such as Stratford, Pampa and Amarillo need to either offer winter protection for a fall-planted sapling or wait until after the last hard freeze to plant. The best way to protect the sapling’s tender roots is by spreading a 3-inch layer of mulch over the soil covering the root zone. Don’t allow the mulch to touch the sapling’s trunk.
There’s a lot more to transplanting a sapling than merely digging a hole. Proper preparation of the soil before transplanting leads to the long-term success of the hawthorn tree. Most tree roots spread through the top 1 foot of soil, according to the Texas Trees Foundation, so use a rototiller or other digging tool to loosen the soil to that depth and twice as wide as the container in which the sapling is currently growing.
Dig the hole the same depth at which the sapling is currently growing, but three times the width of the container. Angle the sides of the hole so that it is wider at the surface of the soil and gently slopes to the bottom. If the soil is particularly heavy or remains wet after a heavy rain, plant the sapling 2 to 3 inches higher than soil level. Don’t use any soil amendments in the back-fill soil and don’t press too hard on the soil after the hole is filled. This may compact the soil, undoing all your work preparing it.
Consistent watering after planting the hawthorn sapling ensures its success. During the first week, water it every day. In the second week, water it every other day. The third week after planting water every third day, and during the fourth week water just once a week. Wait until spring to apply the first dose of fertilizer. The hawthorn sapling will develop thorns on its branches as it matures, so use care when working around it.