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How to Transplant a Fringe Bush

Fringe bushes (Loropetalum chinense) are winter- to spring-blooming shrubs that enhance foundation or border plantings and work as hedges or specimen shrubs. They are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 7 to 10 where they can grow to 15 feet tall but usually top out at about 6 feet. Species shrubs bloom in white but some cultivars bloom in pink or red. Fringe bushes can be transplanted at any time, but a little planning and preparation will help the shrub survive the transplanting process and thrive in its new location.

Things You'll Need

  • Shovel
  • Tape measure
  • Soil pH test
  • Iron sulfate (optional)
  • Aged manure (optional)
  • Compost (optional)
  • Sphagnum peat moss (optional)
  • Tiller (optional)
  • Sharp spade
  • Heavy plastic sheeting
  • Wheelbarrow (optional)
  • Mulch
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Instructions

    • 1

      Dig a root-pruning trench around the fringe bush with a shovel five to seven months prior to transplanting. This will cause the shrub to grow new roots within the trench, resulting in a more compact rootball.

    • 2

      Dig the trench 7 to 8 inches from the stems and 1 foot deep if the shrub is 2 or 3 feet wide or 10 inches away and 15 inches deep if the bush is 4 to 5 feet wide. Add 2 inches to the distance away from the stems and the depth of the trench for every 1 foot of additional width. Separate the topsoil and subsoil while digging the trench. Return the soil to the trench, subsoil first. Settle the soil back into the trench with a thorough watering.

    • 3

      Choose the new location for the fringe bush in an area with a full sun or partial shade that allows the bush to get at least four to six hours of direct sunlight. Test the soil to determine if the pH is between 5 and 7, the preferred pH range for this shrub. Mix iron sulfate into the soil at the new planting site to lower the pH, if necessary. Use 1/2 pound per 12 square feet of loamy or sandy soil to bring the pH down by 1 or from 7.5 to 6.5. Clay soil requires additional amounts of iron sulfate.

    • 4

      Spread aged manure, compost and sphagnum peat moss over the soil at the planting site to a depth of 3 to 6 inches. Mix the amendments into the soil thoroughly to a depth of 1 foot with a tiller or shovel.

    • 5

      Dig the planting hole at the new site before digging up the bush. Make the hole twice the width of the rootball with a depth 1 to 2 inches less than the depth of the rootball. Leave 3 to 5 feet of space between the bush and other shrubs and trees.

    • 6

      Sever any new roots that have grown into the root-pruning trench using a sharp spade. Push the spade all the way into the soil with the rounded back of the blade facing the shrub.

    • 7

      Dig the soil out of the root-pruning trench. Push the spade into the soil under the shrub root mass at a 45-degree angle to form the bottom of the rootball.

    • 8

      Wrap the rootball in thick plastic sheeting before lifting it from the hole. Place it in a wheelbarrow to move it to the planting site if it is too heavy to carry. A 1 1/2-foot wide rootball may weigh 200 pounds.

    • 9

      Set the rootball in the planting hole and remove the plastic sheeting. Push the soil into the hole around the rootball until it is half full. Pour 1/2 gallon of water over the loose soil to settle it.

    • 10

      Fill the hole the rest of the way with soil. Water the shrub with an additional 1/2 to 1 gallon of water to finish settling the soil.

    • 11

      Spread 3 inches of organic mulch around the shrub to help retain soil moisture.

    • 12

      Give the fringe bush 1 to 2 gallons of water each morning for the first month after transplanting. Give it 2 or 3 gallons of water two or three times each week for the remainder of the first year.