How to Transplant a Mature Oleander in Florida

Note the average last frost in your Florida location and plan to transplant your oleander accordingly. While some areas of Florida do not get frost, others experience the last frost sometime between the end of January and the end of March. Transplant your oleander as soon as you can work the soil easily. The greatest risk to a transplanted shrub is shock to the roots, so the more of the growing season it has to re-establish the root system, the better.

Choose a site that gets full sun; the oleander will survive in partial shade, but will not flower well or have a full, lush profile unless it gets at least six hours of sun daily. The new site must have well-drained soil; the oleander grows well in a variety of soils -- from sandy to clay -- as long as it's not waterlogged. Oleanders planted on or near a Florida beach should not receive direct ocean spray. Salty air is fine, but the oleander does best when protected from direct contact with salt water.

Measure the oleander's trunk. For every inch in diameter the trunk measures, the root ball should have a diameter of about 24 inches. Use a sharp spade to cut a circle around the oleander to form the root ball, then cut down into the soil at approximately the same depth, and round out the root ball under the oleander.

Lean the oleander to its side and place a piece of burlap under the root ball. Bring the burlap up to meet at the top of the root ball and secure it around the oleander's trunk with a piece of twine. This keeps the root ball intact and undamaged as the shrub is moved.

Dig a hole the same depth as the oleander's root ball at the new site with a width two times that of the root ball. A hole dug too deep puts the shrub at risk for sinking down into the soil when it is planted, and this may cause the root crown to rot. Place the oleander in its new hole, and cut away the burlap as you replace the soil around the root ball.

Mulch with a 3-inch layer of wood chips so that the entire root ball is covered. Mulch protects the oleander from the Florida heat by regulating soil temperature and conserving moisture. It also keeps weeds from taking hold, which is particularly important as the roots try to re-establish themselves in a new location.

Irrigate the oleander with 1 inch of water after planting. Continue this routine weekly for the next year as the roots develop at their new site. After this establishment period, oleanders can survive drought, though its fastest growth and best flowering will occur when the soil is damp.