Why Doesn't My Electric Fence Zap?

Grounding

• Neglecting to install adequate grounding is a common problem with an undeperforming electric fence. For electricity to complete a circuit back to the charger, you must drive at least three metal rods, each 6 to 8 feet in length and spaced apart, into the ground. Too short rods or too few can easily cause your fence to provide a weak zap or maybe even none at all. The rods must be attached to one another and then back to the charger.

Metal

• If your fence isn't delivering a proper jolt, also verify that you are not mixing different types of metal. For example, steel wire attached to copper might work for a short time, but electrolysis eventually causes corrosion, which weakens the voltage. Also, never use barbed wire in an electric fence. While it electrifies well, animals can become entangled in it and receive a long enough shock exposure to kill them.

Charger

• A good fence charger can be expensive, but it is the engine that drives the whole system. Building a great looking electric fence and hooking it up to an underpowered charger is a waste of time and money. Livestock will walk through the wire on the way out and wild animals will laugh at it on the way in. Dig deep in your wallet for this item and ensure your new fence delivers the kind of zap that makes it worthwhile.

Bottom Wire

• Wet vegetation can cause a short circuit in your electric fence, making it deader than a doorknob. Keep an eye on the bottom wire and make sure grass and weeds never grow high enough to interfere. Another approach is to install the bottom wire on an entirely different charging system, then turn it off when the grass gets too high. The upper wires will still be electrified, and you can turn the bottom wire back on when you get around to taking care of the tall grass.