Check in front, behind, under the gate and around the hinges for obstructions. An errant newspaper, a child's toy or a dog's dirt pile from digging under the gate are just a few of the many possible physical barriers to the gate opening.
Iron, if left untreated, rusts due to exposure to water and oxygen. Rusty hinges on the gate prevent it from opening smoothly or cause it not to open at all. Carefully examine the hinges of the gate for a reddish-looking dust, indicating that you have rust. Sand off as much rust as possible. Spray or brush a rust-neutralizing agent onto the rusty portion of the gate. Finish the treatment by priming and painting the hinges and the rest of the gate with a rust inhibitor to prevent rust formation in the future.
Over time, the post supporting the iron gate can shift. This changes the alignment of the gate, preventing it from opening properly. Heavy iron gates put strain on the post, causing it to shift in the soil. Check the level of the post supporting the iron gate. If it is not straight, you'll need to strengthen it. Bury a wedge with the pointed side down between the post and a pile of rocks underground. Tap the wedge into the ground all the way, until only the top is visible. This helps to hold up a loose gate support post.
Check the locking mechanism of the gate. If it has a keyed lock, add powdered graphite into the lock to loosen it. Work the key in and out of the lock until it turns smoothly and the gate opens. For latched gates, check for rust on the iron and repair the latch as you would a rusty hinge.