How to Anchor a Gate if You Can't Drill a Hole in the Cement

Familiarize yourself with local building codes. Gatepost — also known as terminal post — footings are subject to a great amount of lateral pressure, so codes typically require them to be deeper and wider than intermediate fence post footings. In cold climates, gatepost footings should extend below the frost line, which can require holes from 4 to 6 feet deep.

Dig the posthole with a shovel, manual posthole digger or a power auger. The diameter and depth of the hole depend on the size of the gatepost and local building codes. A typical 4-by-4-foot post requires an 8-inch diameter hole, while a 6-by-6-foot post requires a hole 12 inches in diameter. One-third of the buried portion of the post should be below the frost line: If the frost line in your region is 3 feet below the ground, your hole should extend down 4½ feet. At least one-third of the total gatepost should be underground.

Fill the bottom of the posthole with a 4-inch layer of gravel.

Center the post in the hole. The post should be made from pressure-treated lumber with tightly spaced growth rings, so it’s less likely to warp as it ages.

Stake the post into place with a couple of scrap pieces of 2-by-4 stock, secured to adjacent sides with a hammer and nails. Ensure the gatepost is plumb with a 4-foot level.

Pour an additional 2-inch layer of gravel into the hole around the post.

Fill the hole with concrete until it’s level with the ground, then top it off so that it’s slightly overfilled.

Shape the top of the concrete around the gatepost with a margin trowel so that it slopes away from the post. This will allow the top of the footing to shed water and help prevent the base of the post from rotting.

Allow the concrete to cure completely before you remove the 2-by-4 braces. Depending on the concrete mix you use and the local climate, the curing process can take three to seven days.

Secure the gate to the post with your chosen hardware.