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How to Make a Ferret-Proof Gate

Whether you are trying to keep ferrets in or out of your yard, constructing an effective ferret-proof enclosure requires some knowledge of the habits of ferrets. They can climb. They can burrow and they can fit through any opening that they can get their heads through. Ferret enclosures, including the gate, must have either a roof structure or a guard rail to prevent the ferret from climbing over the fence. To prevent ferrets from burrowing under the gate, the gate must be installed over a solid threshold.

Things You'll Need

  • 2-by-4-inch milled lumber
  • Measuring tape
  • Pencil
  • Chop saw
  • 4 L-shaped corner brackets, 3 inches on each side
  • Carpenter's square
  • Drill with driving bit
  • 1-1/2 inch coated wood screws
  • 4 steel mending plates, 10 inches to 12 inches long
  • Hardware cloth, 1/2-inch galvanized mesh
  • Straight edge
  • Permanent marker
  • Wire-cutting pliers
  • Fence staples
  • Hammer

Instructions

    • 1

      Sketch the gate frame. Include dimensions for the rectangular gate. The lengths of the two vertical gate stiles are equal to the finished height of the gate. The width of the two horizontal gate rails are equal to the width of the gate and 1 inch shorter than the opening between the gate posts. This allows 1/2-inch clearance on each lateral side of the gate for hinges and the latch. Refer to the sketch to trim materials and to assemble the gate.

    • 2

      Rotate the chop saw blade to make 45-degree cuts. Place a 2-by-4-inch plank on the saw table with its 4-inch surfaces vertical. Hold the plank firmly against the saw's guide fence. Trim off the end of the plank at 45 degrees. Refer to your sketch to measure and mark the trimmed plank to the length of a stile. The measurements are made on the longest edge of the board. Position the trimmed plank on the saw table to cut the first stile on the cutting mark. Both ends of the plank are trimmed to 45 degrees. The cuts are divergent, not parallel. Measure, mark and cut the second stile to the same dimensions as the first.

    • 3

      Refer to your sketch to measure, mark and cut two rails for the gate frame. As with the stiles, the ends are trimmed at 45 degrees with divergent cuts.

    • 4

      Assemble the gate frame on a flat surface. The corners meet to form mitered joints like a picture frame. Center one L-shaped bracket to an outer corner of the frame. Screw one leg of the bracket to the stile. Use a carpenter's square to square the joint. Screw the unattached side of the L bracket to the adjacent rail. Repeat to square and brace the remaining three corners of the frame.

    • 5

      Lay one steel mending plate across each inner corner of the frame. Position the mending plates so they form approximate 45-degree triangles with the adjacent corner planks. Securely screw the mending plates to the rails and stiles with at least two screws in each end of each mending plate. The mending plates will serve as diagonal braces for the gate frame.

    • 6

      Lay the hardware cloth on a flat surface. Refer to your sketch to measure and mark the mesh so it is 1 inch shorter and 1 inch narrower than the gate frame. Use a permanent marker and a straight edge to mark the cutting lines on the hardware cloth. Trim the hardware cloth on the cutting lines, using wire-cutting pliers.

    • 7

      Lay the frame on a flat surface with the mending plates facing upward. Center the trimmed hardware cloth to the frame. Use fence staples and hammer to attach the hardware cloth to the frame at the center of each rail and stile. Working from the centers of the framing planks toward the ends, attach the hardware cloth to the frame with staples spaced approximately 1 inch apart. Continue until all four sides of the hardware cloth are securely stapled to the frame.